^    PROF.  W.  H.  SANBORN,    v^ 

XO   SUBDUING  NECESSARY. 

NO  THROWING,  NO  WHIRLING,  NO  WHIPPING,  NO  FETTERING,  NO  CORDS. 

PERFECT   CONTROL  OVER  ANY  HORSE  OR  COLT,  IRRESPECTI\'E 
OF   FAULT   OR   DISPOSITION. 

Copyright  1886  by  WILLIAM   H.  SANBORN. 


PROQRKSSIVE    CONTROL 


OVER 


COLTS  AND  HORSES 


PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTIONS   IN   CONTROLLING  AND 
EDUCATING    THE   COLT  AND   HORSE. 


BY   PROFESSOR  AV.  H.  SANBORN. 


3:llustratetr* 


Copies  of  this    Bool<  can  be  oljtained  by  sending    50  cents,  in 

registered  letter,  or  postal  note,  to  J.  A.  CUM  MINGS  ^ 

CO,,  252  Washington  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 


Copyright    18S6,    by    WILLIAXl     H.    SArvTBORN. 


PREFACE 


In  this  volume  I  have  endeavored  to  introduce  to  the  farmers 
and  horsemen  of  the  United  States  a  method,  by  the  use  of 
which  they  would  be  enabled  to  control  and  educate  their  colts 
and  horses  by  appealing  to  the  intelligence  of  the  animal, 
instead  of  subduing  and  torturing  them  into  submission,  as 
was  the  result  of  every  war-bridle  system  ever  introduced.  I 
will  not  attempt  to  disparage  the  methods  taught  by  others  :  for 
when  we  consider  that  there  is  not  one  unruly  horse  to-day 
where  a  dozen  existed  twenty  years  ago,  we  must  give  them  all, 
from  Rarey  down,  a  fair  share  of  the  credit  for  the  result ;  for 
the  introduction  of  their  systems  was  the  means  of  making 
useful  and  valuable  many  horses  that  otherwise  would  have 
been  worthless.  The  war-bridle  or  rope  systems,  together  with 
their  accompanying  methods  of  throwing,  whirling  and  fetter- 
ing, though  all  right  in  their  day  and  the  best  then  known,  are 
too  complicated  and  require  too  great  an  exertion  to  be  used  by 
any  but  an  experienced  horseman.  These  methods  are  too 
harsh,  also,  and  leave  the  animal's  mouth  lacerated  and  sore, 
his  muscles  strained  and  his  body  bruised  ;  in  fact,  the  horse 
is  punished  after  he  has  obeyed,  which  is  torture  and  should  be 
avoided  in  order  to  get  the  best  results.  Another  objection  is, 
that  the  use  of  the  rope  system  does  not  get  the  colt  or  horse 
under  control  of  the  bit  and  reins  where  he  belongs,  and  with- 
out which  no  colt  or  horse  is  properly  educated.  Then,  too, 
the  constant  selection  of  the  most  intelligent  and  best  devel- 
oped horses  and  mares  from  which  to  breed,  has  produced  a 
better  colt  mentally  as  well  as  physically  ;  and  the  colt  of 
to-day  being  nervous,  sensitive,  intelligent,  and  possessing  a 
strong  mind  and  great  will  power,  will  fight  out  to  the  bitter 
end  any  system  or  appliance  that  is  calculated  to  torture  him 
into  submission ;  consequently  there  is  nce(i  of  an  improved 


IV  rREFACE. 

method  of  controlling  and  educating  colts  and  horses  ;  one  in 
which  there  is  no  torture,  and  which  will  enable  men  to  get 
that  "  obedience  to  authority,"  or  acknowledgement  of  supe- 
riority, which  is  necessary  before  a  man  can  educate  his  horse 
or  a  parent  can  govern  his  child,  without  crushing  out  the 
courage  and  will  power  which  are  the  best  attributes  of  the 
horse,  but,  rather,  controlling  and  directing  them  into  channels 
of  usefulness. 

"\Vhat  farmers  and  horsemen  have  needed  and  do  need,  in 
the  education  of  their  colts  and  horses,  is  a  method  of  control, 
without  harshness,  which  will  apply  to  every  horse  or  colt, 
irrespective  of  disposition,  and  a  system  or  set  of  rules  which 
will  guide  them  in  the  education  of  every  colt  or  horse  regard- 
less of  fault. 

Men  have  for  centuries  had  but  two  appliances  for  controlling 
their  colts  and  horses,  viz.  :  the  ordinary  bridle  and  the  various 
forms  of  the  war-bridle.  The  ordinary  bridle  never  was  proper 
control  over  any  horse  or  colt,  for,  with  the  bit  sliding  back 
and  forth  through  his  mouth  and  working  on  the  lower  jaw, 
which  is  a  movable  part  of  the  head,  he  was  enabled  to  toss  his 
head  into  the  air,  double  his  chin  to  his  breast,  turn  his  head 
from  side  to  side,  look  back  at  his  driver  and  ask  him  when  he 
thought  of  starting.  The  war-bridle  never  was  proper  control 
for  the  reasons  I  have  stated  ;  besides  which,  by  its  use  no  colt 
or  horse  could  be  put  through  the  evolutions  necessary  to 
educate  him. 

I  have  aimed  in  this  volume,  to  explain  to  its  readers  in  as 
concise  language  as  possible,  the  different  methods  by  which, 
with  the  use  of  a  bridle  like  mine,  the  education  of  the  colt 
can  be  brought  to  a  state  of  perfection  and  the  majority  of 
unruly  horses  educated  out  of  their  habits.  I  trust  that  this 
little  book  will  be  read  and  studied,  and  the  directions  herein 
given  be  followed  with  pleasure  and  profit  to  all. 

^y.  II.  SANBORN 


CO^^TEZS'TS, 


reins,  etc.. 


Preface,     .... 

External  parts  of  the  horse, 

Introduction,     . 

The  education  of  the  colt, 

The  sucking  colt, 

Halter-breaking  the  colt,  . 

Instructions  for  making  bridle 

Bridle-breaking  the  colt,  . 

The  "  controlling  touch  "  explained  in  Lesson  III., 

To  remove  the  halter  after  bridling, 

To  educate  the  colt  or  horse  to  back  at  the  head,   . 

To  educate  the  colt  to  allow  his  body  to  be  handled, 

To  educate  the  colt  to  be  shod,         .... 

To  educate  the  colt  to  start  at  the  cluck  and  stop   at  the 

"  whoa," 

Introducing  the  harness  to  the  colt, 
To  lay  a  colt  or  horse  down,    . 

Bitting  a  colt, 

To  educate  the  colt  to  the  breast-plate,   . 

To  get  the  colt  under  control  of  the  reins 

To  educate  the  colt  to  back  by  the  reins, 

To  educate  the  colt  to  stand  at  the  word  "  whoa," 

To  educate  the  colt  to  the  shafts  and  properly  shaft  hi 

Driving  the  colt  to  a  vehicle, 

Hints  on  driving  colts  and  horses  and  makinj 

Open  bridles  for  colts  and  horses, 

Care  of  colts'  and  horses'  teeth. 

Leading  horses  by  the  rein, 

Concave  roof  in  the  horse's  mouth, 

Jerking  on  the  reins, 

Approaching  an  unruly  horse, 

Mesmerizing  horses, 

To  give  the  colt  a  good  carriage  of  the  tail. 

Rule  for  hitching  to  and  unhitching  from  the  vehicle, 


them 


Avayw 


PAGE 

iii 

viii 

1 

5 

5 

5 

8 

7 

11 

11 

13 

15 

18 


VI  CONTEXTS. 

PAGE 

Bits, 42 

Low  ceilings  in  stables, 43 

To  bridle  a  horse  properlj-, 43 

To  compel  any  horse  to  get  up  TS'lien  down, 43 

To  educate  a  horse  to  stand  on  the  street, 43 

The  education  of  unruly  horses, 45 

Rule  to  be  observed  in  educating  every  horse,         ....  49 

The  runaway, 49 

The  puller, 51 

The  bolter, 51 

The  shyer, 53 

The  side-reiner, 54 

The  balky  horse, 55 

The  poor  reincr, 57 

The  horse  afraid  of  locomotives,  umbrellas,  etc.,  ....  57 

The  restless  horse, 59 

The  rearer, 59 

To  prevent  a  trotter  from  breaking, 60 

Eighting  check, 60 

The  biter  and  striker, 61 

The  stallion  unruly  "  in  stud," 61 

Unruly  about  bridling, 62 

Unruly  in  shafting  or  unshaf ting, 62 

To  control  for  clipping,  castrating,  bathing  sores,  sewing  wounds, 
cleaning  sheath,  milking  out,  cruppering,  harnessing,  unhar- 
nessing, etc., 63 

Instructions  to  blacksmiths  for  controlling  colts  and  horses  while 

shoeing, 63 

To  cm-e  a  switcher  without  cutting  the  tail, 65 

Simple  method  to  break  a  halter-puller, 65 

To  prevent  a  horse  getting  cast  in  the  stall, 66 

To  prevent  horses  from  nipping  or  tearing  blankets,     ...  66 

The  breachy  horse, 66 

Pawing  in  the  stall, 67 

Kicking  in  the  stall, .         .67 

Crowding  and  kicking  when  entering  the  stall,       .         .         .         .67 

To  educate  a  horse  that  kicks  in  harness, 67 

Conclusion,        ...........  71 

"  A  bad  pennj' always  returns," 72 

Treatment  of  diseases, .         .73 

Testimonials,    ,        ,        , 74 


illustratio:ns. 


FIG.  PAGE 

1.  External  parts  of  the  horse, viii 

2.  Bridle,  reins,  bit,  etc.,  necessary  for  control  and  handling,  .  8 

3.  Position  for  controlling  and  handling  at  the  head,          .         .  9 

4.  Position  for  backing  the  colt  or  horse, 13 

5.  Position  for  controlling  witli  one  hand,  and  holding  reins 

when  moving  colt  or  horse  about, 15 

6.  J  Positions  for  educating  colt  to  picli  up  his  hind   feet   and 

7.  i-        controlling  kickers  for  shoeing,  etc.,  ...         18,  19 

Opposite  side  view  of  Pigs.  6  and  7, 17 

8.  Position  for  laying  colt  or  horse  down, 22 

9.  Bridle,  reins,  thong  for  checking,  reining-rings  and  safety- 

rein  adjusted  for  giving  reining  lessons,   ....       25 

10.  Position  of  trainer  in  beginning  to  rein  the  colt  and  to  pro- 

pel a  horse  to  the  front  b}^  tossing  the  safety-rein,  .         .       26 

11.  Position  for  shafting  as  in  Lesson  XIII.,        .         .         .         .32 

12.  Arrangement  of  reins  for  driving  until  thoroughly  educated.       35 


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Progressive  Control  over  Colts  and  Horses, 


INTRODUCTORY. 

Control  over  the  horse  simply  means  an  acknowledgment  on 
the  part  of  the  horse  that  you  are  his  superior,  or  master. 
This  acknowledgment  can  be  obtained  just  as  well  by  requir- 
ing him  to  perform  several  little  acts,  each  of  which  he  will 
object  to  do,  viz.  :  Making  him  put  and  hold  his  nose  against 
the  side  of  the  stable,  hold  his  nose  in  and  against  the  corners 
of  the  stable  and  against  harnesses,  robes,  umbrellas,  etc.,  by 
touching  him  about  in  different  directions,  changing  directions 
quickly,  by  handling  him  head  and  foot  together  and  leading 
him  about  by  the  ears,  nose,  lower  lip,  and  jowl,  as  by  jerking 
him  about  with  the  war-bridle,  or  cords,  and  throwing  or  whip- 
ping him ;  and  the  horse's  respect  for  you  will  be  in  proportion 
to  the  ease  with  which  he  sees  that  you  are  able  to  make  him 
do  these  things.  Besides,  while  the  result  is  control  over  your 
horse  by  appealing  to  his  intelligence,  it  is  educational  also, 
because  he  may  be  called  upon  in  tlie  future  to  do  the  very 
things  you  have  asked  him  to  do  while  gaining  control ;  where- 
iis,  if  5^ou  have  used  the  war-bridle,  thrown  him  or  whipped 
him  into  submission,  you  have  simply  taught  him  to  fear  3'ou 
and  his  obedience  is  the  result  of  that  fear. 

Patience  is  of  great  importance  in  the  education  of  the  colt 
or  horse.  Don't  take  it  for  granted  that  he  knows  intuitively 
what  is  wanted  of  him  and  understands  the  word  of  command, 
and  fly  into  a  i^assion  because  he  doesn't  happen  to  obey  ;  but, 
rather  attribute  his  seeming  stubbornness  or  disobedience  to 
his  not  knowing  what  is  wanted  of  him,  and  explain  to  him 
more  carefully. 


Z  rJiOGRESSn^E    COXTItOI.    OVER 

The  only  way  in  which  3-00  can  teach  the  horse  what  is 
wanted  of  him,  is  to  put  him  through  the  motion  necessary  to 
expLain  ;  and  that  is  where  my  bridle  method  of  handling  is 
superior  to  all  others,  in  that  the  colt  or  horse  must  do  as  you 
wish  him  to,  thus  making  it  an  easy  matter  to  explain  to  and 
teach  him. 

Be  careful  to  hold  your  temper.  If,  while  handling  a  colt  or 
horse,  you  feel  your  temper  rise,  put  him  in  a  stall,  wrap  your 
head  in  bandages  dipped  in  ice-water  and  sit  in  the  shade  until 
you  cool  off.  Then  go  back  to  your  colt,  beg  his  pardon  and 
proceed  with  his  education.  An  angry  man  is  not  in  a  fit  con- 
dition to  handle  a  horse. 

Educate  your  colts  and  horses  in  the  barn  or  yard.  Have  no 
one  else  about  and  drive  out  dogs  and  fowls.  If  visitors  come 
in  put  up  your  colt.  You  cannot  visit  and  educate  a  colt 
successfully  at  the  same  time.  The  colt  needs  all  of  your 
attention  and  you  need  the  colt's,  in  order  to  obtain  good 
results,  until  his  education  is  finished. 

Never  attempt  to  educate  a  colt  when  he  is  weary.  You 
cannot  make  the  right  impression  on  a  weary  mind.  AYhen  the 
horse  shows  the  least  sign  of  weariness  let  him  rest. 

Feed  better  when  handling  the  colt  than  ever  before.  The 
extra  strain  on  his  S3^stera  demands  more  food ;  besides,  you 
want  to  keep  up  his  spirit  and  will-power  so  you  can  control 
and  educate  it.  A  full  stomach  tends  to  make  man  or  beast 
contented.  If  I  wanted  to  borrow  five  dollars,  I  would  "  strike 
my  man  "  just  after  dinner. 

Watch  your  colt  carefully,  when  handling  him,  for  the  first 
sign  of  obedience,  and  be  always  ready  to  yield  to  him  or 
remove  whatever  force  you  ma}^  be  using  at  the  moment  he 
shows  a  willingness  to  obey.  In  this  manner  only  can  you 
explain  to  him  that  he  has  obeyed.  The  mistake  is  too  often 
made  of  punishing  the  horse  past  the  point  of  obedience, 
which  only  confuses  him  and  makes  work  for  3^ourself . 

Your  success  will  also  depend  on  a  careful  watch  for  any 
sign  which  will  indicate  disobedience  and  your  ability  to  "get 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  O 

there  "  just  before  3'our  horse  does.  Whatever  correction  you 
use,  the  nearer  you  can  bring  it  to  the  thought  of  disobedience 
the  more  effective  it  will  be,  and  the  nearer  you  can  bring  the 
removal  of  the  correction  to  the  thought  of  obedience  the 
quicker  3'ou  can  appeal  to  the  intelligence  of  the  horse. 

Speak  in  a  quiet,  firm  tone  when  commanding  the  horse. 
He  has  a  quick  ear.  Shouting  is  unnecessary  and  only  tends 
to  arouse  and  irritate  him.  Speak  the  word  of  command  but 
once,  and  teach  the  horse  that  he  must  obey  the  one  word. 
The  simpler  the  language  used  the  more  readily  will  he  under- 
stand. The  use  of  too  many  words  serves  to  confuse,  besides, 
it  makes  the  horse  similar  to  a  child  that  is  being  constantly 
talked  to  by  its  parents  :  he  is  soon  unable  to  know  when  you 
are  in  earnest. 

I  am  not  a  believer  in  "kindness"  to  the  horse,  as  that 
term  is  generally  understood.  By  "  kindness  "  is  usually  meant 
a  constant  coaxing,  caressing  and  feeding  of  apples  and  sugar  M^ 
on  every  occasion,  with  no  control  or  discipline  connected,  and 
with  no  definite  purpose  in  view.  No  method  has  created  so 
many  balkers,  bolters,  biters,  kickers,  or  runaways,  or  been  so 
productive  of  destruction  to  life,  limb  and  property,  as  this 
foolish  cossetting.  "Kindness  to  the  horse"  should  mean  a 
firm  discipline,  the  absence  of  abuse  in  controlling  and  edu- 
cating, and  a  system  of  reward  in  the  form  of  a  caress,  an 
encouraging  word  or  a  bit  of  apple  or  choice  morsel,  only  when 
he  has  obeyed  and  never  when  he  is  disobedient. 

The  spirit  of  rivalry  as  to  who  shall  produce  the  fastest 
yearling  or  two-year-old  will  lead  the  horsemen  of  our  country 
into  excesses  in  early  training,  and,  ultimately,  be  the  means 
of  decreasing  the  strength  and  endurance  of  the  coming  genera- 
tions of  colts.  The  soft,  yielding  muscles,  joints  and  tendGms 
of  the  undeveloped  colt  are  not  in  a  condition  to  stand  the 
strain  attendant  on  the  severe  early  training  necessary  to  fit  for 
a  race  ;  much  less  are  the  sheaths,  through  which  the  muscles 
play,  firm  enough  to  hold  the  expansion  of  the  bundles  of 
muscles  as  they  are  gathered  for  a  desperate  move,  and,  in  a 


4  PROGRESSnE    CONTROL    OVER 

■few  years,  we  will  see  stocked  legs,  enlarged  joints,  tendons, 
•etc.,  and  these  blemishes  will  be  attributed  to  a  recent  injury, 
Tvhen  such  things  do  not  develop  in  a  short  time. 

When  horsemen  stop  and  consider  that  the  present  state  of 
perfection  of  the  horse,  and  the  very  ability  of  their  colts  to 
liot  so  fast,  are  qualities  inherited  from  sires  and  dams  that 
-were  not  trained  young  ;  and  that,  when  these  over-trained 
-and  over-exerted  colts,  weakened  in  body  and  mind  by  exces- 
sive work,  are  coupled,  they  will  transmit  their  infirmities  to 
their  progeny  thus  in  a  few  years  producing  a  race  of 
weaklings,  then  will  the  change  come,  and  I  predict  in  the 
course  of  ten  years  a  complete  revolution  in  the  prevailing 
ideas  concerning  early  training. 


CULTS    AND    IIOKSES. 


THE  EDUCATION  OF  THE  COLT. 


LESSON  I. 
THE    "SUCKER." 


Before  the  colt  is  a  mouth  old,  it  will  be  a  good  plan  to  get 
hold  of  him,  pass  the  left  hand  and  arm  under  and  around  his 
neck,  and,  with  the  right  arm  over  his  shoulder,  grasp  his  off 
fore  leg  in  the  right  hand  and  hold  him  close  to  you  until  he 
ceases  his  struggles,  when  he  should  be  patted  and  rubbed 
until  he  shows  no  fear.  This  should  be  repeated  until  he  will 
submit  to  be  handled  w^ithout  objection.  As  soon  as  he  will 
eat,  reward  him  with  a  bit  of*  apple  when  he  is  obedient  to 
your  wishes. 


LESSON  II. 

HALTER  BREAKING. 


AYhen  you  wish  to  halter-break  a  colt,  take  a  common  web 
or  strap  halter  that  fits  well,  and  to  the  ring  under  the  chin 
fasten  two  pieces  of  old  reins,  or  ropes  the  size  of  a  bed-cord, 
long  enough  for  the  colt  to  tread  on  with  his  fore  feet  when 
the  halter  is  on.  Then  take  the  halter,  and  a  generous  supply 
of  pieces  of  apples  in  a  small  pail,  and  introduce  yourself 
quietly  into  the  colt's  pen.  Stand  still  until  he  has  looked  you 
over  and  formed  some  idea  of  what  you  are  ;  then  approach 
him  quietly,  holding  the  temptation  out  in  your  hand.  Be 
patient,  and  in  a  short  time  he  will  take  the  bait.  Repeat  this 
until  you  are  able  to  touch  him  with  the  other  hand,  when  you 


C  rUOGRESSIVE    CONTROL    0\BH 

will  quietly  scratch  und  rub  his  neck,  gradually  working  j^our 
hand  towards  his  ears  and  feeding  him  with  the  other  hand. 
He  will  soon  allow  you  to  work  about  his  head  and  ears,  when 
3'ou  can  put  the  hand  with  the  bait  through  the  nose-piece  of 
the  halter  from  the  bottom  up,  and,  as  he  takes  the  bait,  slip 
the  halter  up  over  his  nose  with  the  other  hand  and  fasten  it 
on.  Make  no  sudden  moves  with  the  body  or  hands.  If  you 
fail  to  get  the  halter  on  at  the  first  attempt,  be  patient  and  try 
again.  Don't  be  in  a  hurry  and  try  to  force  matters.  Don't 
try  to  halter  him  if  you  haven't  much  time  to  spare.  If  he 
will  eat  your  supply  of  apples  without  allowing  himself  to  1)e 
haltered,  leave  him  alone  for  an  hour,  then  go  and  try  again. 
In  your  absence  he  will  at  least  have  formed  a  favorable 
opinion  of  you,  and  will  welcome  your  second  coming.  After 
getting  the  halter  on,  let  him  go  with  the  reins  trailing  on  the 
ground,  and,  by  constant  treading  on  them,  he  will  halter- 
break  himself  in  about  forty-eight  hours  so  you  can  lead  him 
anywhere.  In  most  cases,  if  he  is  halter-broken  in  this 
manner,  he  will  stand  tied.  If  he  does  not,  and  you  wish  to 
teach  him  to  stand  tied,  fasten  about  fifteen  feet  of  clothes-line 
to  the  halter-ring,  lead  him  to  a  post,  put  the  rope  about  it, 
take  hold  of  the  free  end  and  give  a  strong,  steady  pull.  If 
he  should  slat  or  pull  do  not  hold  him  hard,  but  ease  away  on 
your  end  until  he  stops  pulling,  when  you  will  snub  him  up 
again  and  repeat  until  he  gives  to  the  halter.  Then  lead  him 
about  the  barn  and  yard  and  repeat  this  lesson  by  putting  the 
rope  about  a  dozen  different  places  and  teaching  him  to  stand 
at  them  all. 

The  old  method  of  teaching  colts  to  stand  tied  by  tieing  them 
to  a  post  with  a  strong  rope  and  letting  them  slat  and  pull  until 
they  were  exhausted,  has  been  the  cause  of  more  spavins, 
puffs,  etc.,  in  after  years  than  anything  else.  Such  things  do 
not  come  in  a  short  time,  and,  though  usually  attributed  to 
some  recent  cause,  are  the  result  of  an  injury  to  the  colt  when 
his  joints  and  tendons  were  undeveloped  and  unable  to  stand 
n  severe  strain.     You  should  avoid,  in  every  instance  possible, 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  7 

*"•  holding  them  to  it,"  as  the  saying  is,  for  it  makes  them 
frantic,  and  the  well-bred  colt  of  to-day  represents  too  great  a 
yalue  for  you  to  jeopardize  his  safety  in  that  way. 

It  is  advisable,  when  possible,  to  get  your  colt  accustomed 
to  be  carded,  and  to  allow  his  head,  feet  and  tail  to  be  handled 
while  he  is  small  and  you  are  able  to  control  him  from  superi- 
ority of  strength.  When  he  begins  to  eat,  a  few  dollars 
judiciously  expended  in  a  variety  of  food  will  give  him  a  good 
start  in  life,  and  when  a  well-fed  colt  has  matured,  his  rugged 
appearance  and  strong  frame  will  attest  to  the  wise  expenditure 
when  3"oung.  A  half -fed,  stunted  colt  will  carry  with  him 
through  life  that  exhausted,  auxious-for-a-holiday  appearance 
borne  by  so  many  of  the  horses. 

If  colts  could  be  reared  on  a  hill-side  the}^  woulci  have  a 
better  constitution  and  wear  longer  than  those  grown  on  level 
land.  Aside  from  the  benefits  derived  from  the  better  quality 
of  upland  pasturage,  in  travelling  about  on  the  hill-side  every 
muscle  would  be  called  into  action  and  the  result  would  be  a 
well-developed  and  strong-limbed  horse. 


LESSON    III. 
BRIDLE-BREAKIXG    THE    COLT. 

Before  putting  on  the  bridle,  take  the  colt  by  the  halter,  and 
with  your  left  thumb,  touch  him  up  under  the  upper  lip  on  the 
roof  of  his  mouth.  Any  horse  will  open  his  mouth  if  you 
touch  him  there.  Repeat  this  until  he  shows  no  objection  and 
is  educated  to  allow  you  to  do  it.  Hang  the  bridle  on  the  right 
thumb  with  the  thumb  in  the  center  of  the  crown-piece.  Lay 
the  bit  in  the  left  hand  between  the  first  and  second  finger  and 
forward  of  the  thumb,  with  the  thumb  inside  of  the  near  bit- 
ring.  Bring  the  bridle  before  the  colt's  face  and  carry  the  bit, 
held  in  the  left  hand,  to  his  mouth.  You  will  find  that  the  bit 
now  lies  paiaUel  with  his  lips  and  your  thumb  is  in  position  ta 


PEOGRESSIYE    CONTROL    OVER 


BRIDLE,  REINS,  ETC.,  NECESSARY  FOR  PERFECT  CONTROL  OVER  THE  HORSE. 

aa.  Bridle,  constructed  with  long  billets  for  the  cheek-pieces,  having  hut  one 
huckle  each,  by  which  to  adjust  their  length,  Avhich  allows  the  bridle  to  be  adjusted 
to  any  length  of  head.  Any  bridle  will  answer  for  grown  horses,  with  over-draws, 
etc.,  attached,  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

hb.  Over-draw  straps,  five-eighths  inch  wide  and  thirty-two  inches  long.  Billets 
to  be  short  as  possible,  with  five-eighths  rings  (cc)  sewed  into  the  splices  with  the 
buckles. 

cc.    Rings  on  billets,  to  which  the  keeper  (d)  is  to  be  tied  with  the  cord  (e). 

d.  Keeper,  to  be  made  adjustable,  snug  as  possible  to  the  over-draws,  with 
half  inch  leather  block  between  them.  The  control  is  increased  by  pulling  the 
keeper  down  and  lessened  by  pushing  it  up. 

e.  Cord,  running  through  two  holes  iu  lower  end  of  keeper,  and  used  to  fasten 
keeper  (dj  down  to  full  control  by  putting  cord  (e)  through  rings  ^cc^  and  tieing  in 
a  knot  across  horse's  nose. 

//.  Loops,  with  buckles  attached  so  they  can  be  adjusted  on  the  over-draws 
back  of  the  crown-piece  as  may  be  required.  The  loops  should  be  two  inches  in 
diameter  and  as  close  to  the  buckles  as  possible.  In  driving  Avith  the  reins  through 
the  loops  the  control  is  increased  by  buckling  them  up  ou  the  over-draws  closer  to 
the  crown-piece,  and  diminished  by  buckling  them  away  from  the  crown-piece. 

g.    Wilson,  four-ring,  double-joint,  bit. 

hh.  Reining  rings,  attac-hed  close  to  snaps  by  a  piece  of  leather  and  rivets 
between  snaps  and  rings.  These  rings  are  snapped  on  to  the  buckles  on  the  inner 
girth  for  the  purpose  of  running  the  reins  through  when  handling  a  colt  or  horse  by 
the  reins.    They  will  be  found  to  be  much  better  than  the  thill-lugs  for  that  purpose. 

ii.    Leaders,  six  feet  long  each. 

j.     Hand-pieces,  buckled  together,  seven  feet  long  each. 

k.  Safety-rein,  fourteen  feet  long.  Thicker  towards  the  bit  end,  and  snap 
attached. 

I.  Leather  thong,  fourteen  feet  long,  used  as  a  check.  A  small  rope  will 
answer  as  well. 

m.    Check  extension,  for  use  when  colt  or  horse  is  educated  and  behaves  well. 


COLTS    AND    IIOK8ES. 


a 


touch  him  under  his  upper  lip.  You  will  now  touch  him  undei 
his  upper  lip  with  your  thumb  ;  his  mouth  will  open,  when  3'ou 
will  raise  the  bridle  with  the  right  hand  and  carry  the  bit  up 
into  his  mouth.  Then  run  the  left  hand  under  the  bridle  and 
gather  the  fore-top  in  the  left  hand.  Tuck  the  off  ear  under 
the  crown-piece  and  into  place  with  the  right  thumb  ;  then,  still 
holding  the  fore-top  in  the  left  hand,  change  the  right  hand  to 
the  near  side  of  the  crown-piece   and  tuck    the  near  ear  into 


Ficj.  3. 
POSITIOX  Foil  COXTROLLIXG  AXD  HANDLING  AT  THE  HEAD. 

Arrangement  of  oft'  leader  through  loop  on  off  side  being  shown  on  page  17  . 

The  "  controJlivfi  touch  "  is  given  l)y  pressing  downward  Avith  the  right  hand  and 
immediately  slacking  away,  at  the  same  time  bearing  steadily  on  the  near  leader 
Avith  the  left  hand. 


place  with  the  right  thumb.  Then  pull  the  fore-top  down  with 
the  left  hand,  and  the  bridle  is  on  properly.  Then  buckle  the 
throat-latch  pretty  snug  for  all  stable  handling  (but  do  not 
forget  to  drive  alwa3^s  with  a  loose  throat-latch  so  as  to  enable 
the  horse  to  breath  easily) .  Then  adjust  the  cheek-pieces  so 
that  the  bit  will  lay  just  to  the  corners  of  the  mouth  ;  having 
them  too  snug  will  irritate  the  colt  or  horse.  Then  pull  the 
keeper  down  on  the  colt's  nose  until  the  bit  lays  up  against  the 


10  PKOGKESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

roof  of  the  mouth.  It  must  not  be  very  snug  to  the  roof 
unless  you  have  a  bad  case  and  want  extreme  control.  Take 
your  thumb  and  press  the  lips  outward  away  from  the  gums  so 
as  to  let  the  bit  lay  to  the  roof.  Fasten  the  keeper  in  place 
with  the  thong  or  cord  which  runs  through  the  holes  on  the 
lower  end  of  the  keeper,  by  putting  the  ends  of  the  thong 
through  the  rings  on  the  over-draws  near  the  bit  and  tying 
them  across  the  nose.  Then  take  hold  of  the  ends  of  the 
over-draws,  back  of  the  crown-piece,  draw  them  up  snug  and 
buckle  the  loops  up  close  to  the  rings  on  the  crown-piece 
through  which  the  over-draws  run.  Now  put  the  off  leader 
through  the  loop  on  the  off  over-draw  and  toss  it  over  the  neck 
to  the  near  side.  The  bridle  is  now  arranged  for  control. 
Take  your  position  as  in  fig.  3,  by  grasping  the  off  leader  in  the 
right  hand  and  taking  a  firm  hold  of  the  near  leader,  close  to 
the  bit,  with  the  left  hand.  Keep  a  steady  downward  pull  on 
the  near  leader  and  press  downward  and  forward  on  the  off 
leader,  at  the  same  time  stepping  backward  away  from  the 
colt.  Repeat  this,  stepping  backward  each  time,  and  take  the 
colt  around  in  a  circle  first,  then  gradually  work  him  out  of 
the  circle  into  a  straight  line.  Remember  that  3^ou  keep  a 
steady  pull  on  the  near  leader  only,  and  accompany  it  with 
a  downward  touch  over  the  neck  on  the  off  leader,  and  when 
the  colt  answers  to  it  and  steps  towards  you,  immediately 
slack  away  with  the  right  hand.  Your  object  in  touching  down 
on  the  oft'  leader  is  to  cause  the  center  of  the  bit  to  press 
against  the  center  of  the  roof  of  his  mouth,  and  when  the  colt 
moves  towards  you,  by  slacking  away  on  the  off  leader  you 
remove  the  pressure  of  the  bit,  the  colt  soon  understands  it 
and  will  answer  to  it  readil3\  When  he  readily  answers  to  the 
touch  over  the  neck  and  will  come  to  the  front  in  answer  to  it, 
lead  him  about  the  stable,  occasionally  touching  down  on  the 
off  leader,  and  then  make  him  put  his  nose  against  the  side  of 
the  stable.  If  he  refuses,  touch  downward  on  the  off  leader 
and  persist  until  you  succeed  with  him.  The  downward  touch 
over  the  back  of  the   neck  with  the   off  leader,  which   causes 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  11 

the  center  of  the  bit  to  touch  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  is  called 
^nd  will  hereafter  be  known  and  spoken  of  as  the  "Control- 
ling Touch."  Then  lead  the  colt  into  every  part  of  the 
stable  ;  after  which,  lead  him  into  the  yard ;  find  every  place 
possible  where  he  will  refuse  to  go  and  compel  him  to  go  by 
the  "  controlling  touch."  Hang  up  umbrellas,  robes,  etc.,  and 
compel  him  to  go  to  them.  In  leading  him  about,  change  to 
the  off  side,  reverse  the  leaders  b}^  putting  the  near  one  through 
the  loop  on  the  near  over-draw,  toss  it  over  the  neck,  let  the  off 
leader  hang  from  the  bit,  take  hold  of  the  off  leader  in  the 
right  hand  near  the  bit,  the  near  leader  in  the  left  hand  (as 
in  fig.  3  reversed),  and  give  the  "controlling  touch"  with  the 
left  hand.  Make  this  a  rule  in  the  education  of  the  colt,  viz., 
to  handle  as  much  on  one  side  as  the  other  and  educate  both 
sides  alike.  If,  when  3'ou  give  the  "controlling  touch"  the 
colt  or  horse  does  not  answer  to  it  readily,  it  is  because  the 
roof  of  his  mouth  is  concave  and  the  bit  cannot  reach  the 
center,  in  which  case  wind  the  center  with  copper  wire  and 
elevate  it  as  much  as  possible.  If  when  you  give  the  "con- 
trolling touch"  the  colt  will  slat  or  pull,  do  not  hold  him  firm, 
but  ease  away  on  the  reins  until  he  stops,  when  you  will  repeat 
the  touch  until  he  comes  without  resisting.  This  should  be  a 
rule  in  handling  every  horse. 

It  is  advisable  to  bridle  the  colt  over  the  halter  until  he  will 
stand  still  to  be  bridled.  By  so  doing  you  have  the  means  of 
■checking  him  if  he  attemps  to  get  away  or  resists  being  bridled. 
After  putting  on  the  bridle,  remove  the  halter  by  unbuckling 
the  crown-piece  of  the  halter,  and,  taking  hold  of  the  nose-piece, 
pull  it  down  over  the  end  of  the  nose,  push  it  up  into  the 
mouth,  over  the  bit  and  out  of  the  mouth.  Then  adjust  the 
bridle.  If  the  halter  does  not  unbuckle  top  of  the  neck,  pass 
the  crown-piece  of  the  halter  under  the  crown-piece  of  the 
bridle,  over  the  ears  and  down  to  the  nose.  Remove  the  nose- 
jriece  of  the  halter  first,  then  follow  it  with  the  crown-piece. 

In  order  to  properly  educate  the  colt,  it  is  essential  that  he 
should  be  bridle-handled  in  order  to  get  him  under  control  (for 


12  PROGRESSIVE    CONTROL    OA^ER 

without  coutrol  you  cannot  educate)  ;  get  him  acquainted  with 
the  bit  and  accustomed  to  answer  to  it  in  every  direction.  The 
education  of  the  colt  simply  consists  in  putting  him  through 
certain  motions  and  repeating  this  often  enough  to  make  a 
permanent  impression  on  his  mind  as  to  what  he  must  do  in 
answer  to  each  word  of  command.  If  you  have  a  bridle  of 
such  construction,  and  a  method  of  handling  that  will  enable 
you  to  so  perfectly  control  his  movements  that  he  can  do 
nothing  but  what  you  wish  him  to,  it  will  become  an  easy 
matter  to  educate  him.  But,  if,  when  you  attempt  to  lead  or 
drive  him  to  one  place,  he  can,  on  account  of  poor  control,  go 
to  several  other  places,  you  have  failed  to  explain  to  him  where 
you  did  want  him  to  go  ;  in  fact,  by  his  being  able  to  go  to  the 
wrong  place  he  is  led  to  understand  that  it  was  the  right  place, 
and  your  labor  is  more  than  doubled  ;  for  you  will  have  to  get 
that  impression  out  of  his  mind  before  you  can  get  the  right 
one  in,  and  his  education  becomes  a  difficult  task. 

Right  here  is  where  the  benefits  of  my  bridle  and  my  method 
of  handling  it  will  be  realized  by  those  who  have  colts  or  horses 
to  educate  ;  for,  by  its  proper  use,  it  is  an  utter  impossibility 
for  the  colt  or  horse  to  do  anything  but  what  you  want  him 
to  do. 

The  object  in  finding  places  to  which  he  will  refuse  to  go  is 
to  get  him  under  perfect  discipline  and  get  him  to  thinking 
that  he  must  go  wherever  you  lead.  When  you  get  him  to 
that  point  he  is  perfectly  halter-broke  and  not  before.  Do 
not  speak  the  word  "  come,"  or  "  here,"  to  the  colt  when  you 
are  teaching  him  to  lead,  for  by  so  doing  he  will  connect  the 
forward  motion  with  those  words,  and  when  you  start  to  teach 
him  that  a  cluck  means  to  go  forward  you  will  have  to  unteach 
him  ;  whereas,  if  you  start  him  with  the  cluck  at  first,  by  the 
time  he  is  read}^  to  drive  he  will  understand  that  it  means  "  go 
to  the  front."  Teaching  hini  to  follow  at  the  word  "  come  " 
may  be  called  an  accomplishment,  and  such  things  should  be 
reserved  until  th3  business  part  of  his  education  is  finished. 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES. 


13 


LESSON  IV. 

TO  TEACH  THE  COLT  TO  BACK  AT  THE  HEAD. 

Put  the  bridle  ou  for  full  control,  that  is,  with  the  keeper 
fastened  snugly  down  on  the  nose,  the  loops  buckled  close  to 
the  crown-piece,  the  off  leader  through  off  loop  and  tossed 
across  the  neck  on  to  near  side.  Take  position  as  in  fig.  4. 
Press  backward  with  right  hand  just  enough  to  hold  the  colt's 


Fig.  4. 

POSITION  TOR  BACKING  COLT   OR  HORSE   AT  THE  HEAD. 

fore  feet  in  one  spot  as  nearly  as  possible  and  touch  him  under 
the  chin  with  the  near  leader  held  in  left  hand.  Touch  him 
about  to  the  right  with  the  left  hand,  at  the  same  time  holding 
back  on  the  off  leader  with  the  right  hand.  Work  him  about 
in  a  circle,  gradually  enlarging  the  circle,  and  you  will  soon 
have  him  backing  in  a  straight  line.  When  he  steps  back  at 
the  backward  touch  of  the  leaders,  slack  awa}^  immediately  on 
the  leaders.  Then  repeat  the  touch  backward,  slacking  away 
on  the  leaders  each  time  he  yields  to  the  bit.  By  doing  this 
you  explain  to  him  that  he  has  obeyed.     When  he  understands 


14  PROGUESSIVE  COXTROL  OVER 

that  a  backward  pressure  ou  the  bit  means  to  step  back,  then 
speak  the  word  "  back,"  accompanied  with  the  pressure,  and 
he  wnll  soon  learn  what  the  word  means.  Repeat  this  until 
he  will  back  at  the  word  alone.  Now  it  is  necessary  to  get 
him  to  refuse  to  back  in  order  to  make  him  a  disciplined 
backer.  Pile  some  brusli  on  the  floor  and  back  him  towards 
it.  He  will  probably  refuse  to  back  on  to  it.  When  he  does, 
set  heavily  back  on  the  off  leader  with  a  steady  pull  and  set 
down  heavily  on  the  near  leader.  If  he  is  very  stubborn, 
throw  the  off  leader  over  to  the  off  side,  pass  it  back  of  his 
fore  legs,  take  the  free  end  in  your  right  hand  and  set  heavily 
ahead  on  it,  at  the  same  time  setting  down  on  the  near  leader. 
This  will  back  the  most  stubborn  case.  If,  when  you  are 
touchinsj  the  colt  about  to  the  riojht  he  should  become  stubborn, 
as  they  sometimes  will,  and  allow  you  to  put  his  head  around 
to  his  off  shoulder  without  moving  his  body,  don't  get  angry 
and  try  to  force  him  around,  but  lay  3^our  back  against  him 
just  back  of  his  near  shoulder  and  take  him  about  to  the  left, 
then  change  to  the  right  and  he  will  soon  back. 

Never  speak  a  word  to  the  colt  when  you  are  handling  him, 
until  you  have  taught  him  to  go  through  the  motion  on  the 
pressure  of  the  reins  or  bit ;  because  he  knows  nothing  about 
the  meaning  of  your  language,  and  it  only  serves  to  take  his 
attention  to  the  sound  of  your  voice  and  hinders  your  getting 
the  desired  motion.  But  when  you  have  taught  him  the 
motion,  then  accompany  it  with  the  v\-ord  of  command  and  he 
will  soon  connect  the  two  and  understand  what  the  word 
means. 

Backing  is  an  unnatural  motion  with  the  horse  and  he  must 
be  taught  it.  The  object  in  putting  him  into  some  position 
where  he  will  refuse  to  back,  after  you  have  taught  him  to 
back,  is  to  convince  him  that  he  must  back  when  you  ask 
him  to  :  and  no  horse  is  a  perfect  backer  that  has  not  refused 
to  back  and  been  forced  to  do  it.  The  colt's  seeming  refusal 
to  back,  before  he  had  learned  the  motion  and  what  the  word 
^'back"    meant,    was    not  disobedience,   because  he  did  not 


COLTS    AND    HOESES. 


15 


yet  imderstand  what  was  wanted  of  him.  If  he  won't  refuse 
to  back  over  the  brush,  take  him  out  into  the  3'ard  and  back 
him  into  a  soft  spot ;  and  don't  fail  to  get  him  to  refuse  to 
back  somewhere  and  compel  him  to  back,  for  if  you  do  not 
do  this  he  will  refuse  in  the  future  where  it  will  trouble  you,. 
and  it  will  be  less  work  to  handle  him  now  while  you  are 
prepared.  If  he  should  get  angry  and  slat,  don't  hold  him 
firm,  but  ease  away  until  he  stops,  then  try  him  again.  This. 
method  will  not  fail  to  teach  auv  horse  to  back. 


Firj.  0. 

POSITION  FOR    COXTROLLIXG  WITH  ONE  HAND   AXD  HOLDING  REIXS   WHEN 
MOVING  THE  COLT  OR  HORSE  AHOMT. 

The  "  controlling  touch"  is  given  by  touching  downward  on  both  reins. 


LESSON   V. 

TO  EDUCATE  THE  COLT  TO  ALLOW  HIS  BODY  TO  BE 
HANDLED,  TO  BE  CARDED,  ETC. 


Put  on  the  bridle  for  full  control  as  described  in  Lesson 
III.  Take  a  bag  in  the  right  hand  and  hold  both  reins  at 
corner  of  jaw  as  in  fig.  0.  Bring  the  bag  to  his  nose  with 
right  hand.  If  he  shows  fear  and  tries  to  get  away,  give  him 
the   "controlling  touch"    and  repeat  it  until  he  stands   still. 


Il3  PROGRESSIVE    CONTROL    OYER 

Play  about  bis  head  and  body  with  the  bag  until  he  will  allow 
you  to  stand  back  the  length  of  the  leaders  and  throw  it  at  him 
without  moving.  Then  take  a  paper,  umbrella,  robe,  harness, 
whip,  etc.,  and  do  the  same  thing  and  repeat  this  lesson  in  the 
yard.  This  will  not  only  educate  him  to  these  articles,  but 
will  teach  him  to  control  his  nerves  when  he  sees  objects 
approach  him  suddenly. 

Then  handle  his  head  thoroughly.  Take  hold  of  his  near 
ear  with  the  right  hand  and  handle  it  thoroughly.  If  he 
objects,  touch  on  the  near  leader  with  the  left  hand,  which  will 
cause  the  bit  to  touch  the  roof  of  his  mouth  and  control  him. 
Then  lead  him  about  by  the  ears,  mane,  foretop,  nose,  jaw  and 
lower  lip.  Touch  on  near  leader  with  left  hand  if  he  objects. 
Put  right  arm  over  his  head  and  teach  him  to  hold  his  head 
down  by  pressing  down  with  right  arm  and  touching  down  on 
near  leader  with  left  hand,  and  allow  your  arm  to  slip  over  his 
ears  and  back  again.  Then  handle  him  all  about  his  body 
with  your  right  hand  and  handle  his  tail  by  grasping  it  firmly 
in  right  hand  and  working  it  in  every  direction  ;  then  toss  it 
well  up  over  the  back  several  times.  If,  w^hen  handling  the 
tail,  he  steps  away  from  you,  step  back  to  his  head,  place  him 
back  from  where  he  moved,  touch  down  on  both  reins  and  say 
"  whoa."  Repeat  this  patiently  as  many  times  as  is  necessary 
to  make  him  understand  what  you  want.  Handle  the  under- 
side of  the  tail  well  with  the  hand.  If  this  is  thoroughly  done 
he  will  not  scringe  or  kick  when  being  cruppered  or  uncrup- 
pered.  Hold  the  leaders  in  your  left  hand  and  give  him  the 
"  controlling  touch"  iu  case  he  objects. 

Take  a  pole  like  a  sled-stake  and  bring  it  to  his  head  until 
he  gets  acquainted  with  it.  Then  rub  him  all  about  his  body 
and  legs.  Pry  between  his  legs  and  teach  him  to  ease  up  on 
the  pressure.  Thump  him  gently  all  over  his  body,  and 
especially  about  his  flanks  and  haunches  where  the  cross-bar 
would  strike  if  the  breeching  should  break.  Lead  him  abou^ 
the  floor  with  the  pole  between  his  legs  and  teach  him  to  step 
over   it  and    allow  it  to  rub    against  his  legs.     Play  the  pole 


COLTS    AND    HORSES. 


17 


aloDg  his  side  where  the  shafts  will  come  and  repeat  these 
lessons  until  he  will  stand  on  a  halter  and  allow  it.  Give  him 
the  "  controlling  touch  "  if  he  objects,  and  say  "  whoa." 

Teach  him  to  pick  up  his  fore  foot  by  passing  the  near  leader 
under  the  fetlock  and  lifting  on  it  with  the  free  end  of  the 
leader  in  the  right  hand.  He  will  soon  learn  that  picking  up 
his  foot  removes  the  pressure  of  the  bit  in  the  roof  of  his 
mouth.     Then  take  up  the  foot  in  a  loop  of  the  off  leader,  hold 


OPPOSITE  SIDE  VIEW  OF  FIGS.  6  AND  7. 

SliOAving  safety  rein  running  from  the  bit-ring  through  the  loop  on  the  off  over- 
draw, as  it  should  he  on  opposite  sides  of  Figs.  6  and  7.  Also,  showing  off  leader 
running  from  the  hit-ring  through  the  loop  and  over  the  neck  as  it  should  be  in 
Figs.  3,  4,  5  and  11. 


it  in  the  left  hand  and  pound  and  rub  on  it  with  a  hammer  or 
piece  of  hard  wood.  Teach  him  to  hold  his  foot  up  until  you 
are  ready  to  let  it  go.  Pass  the  near  leader  under  his  near 
fore  leg,  and  by  lifting  on  the  leader  raise  his  leg  up  and  teach 
him  to  hold  it  on  the  rein.  Then  if  he  gets  his  leg  over  the 
halter  he  will  hold  it  there  until  help  comes. 


18 


PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 


TO  EDUCATE  THE  COLT  TO  BE  SHOD. 

To  teach  him  to  lift  his  hind  foot,  snap  the  safety-rein  on. 
the  off  bit-ring,  run  it  through  the  loop  on  the  off  over-draw 
and  toss  it  about  his  heels  as  in  fig.  6.  If  he  is  inclined  to 
kick  at  it,  let  him.  He  will  soon  see  the  folly  of  it.  When  he 
will  not  resist  the  rein  about  his  heels,  toss  it  up  over  his  back, 
pass  the  free  end  inside  of  his  near  hind  leg,  take  hold  of  the 
end  with  the  right  hand  and  let  it  drop  under  his  fetlock,  as  in 


Fig.  6. 

POSITIOX  FOR  CONTROLLING  COLTS'  AND  KICKERS'  HEELS. 

See  illustration  of  opposite  side  on  page  17. 

fig-  7.  Educate  him  to  lift  his  foot  by  drawing  forward  on 
the  safety-rein  with  the  right  hand.  When  he  will  lift  his 
foot,  take  the  foot  in  a  loop  of  the  safety-rein  with  the  right 
hand,  at  the  same  time  taking  both  the  leaders  in  the  left. 
Lift  his  foot  in  the  loop,  work  it  up  and  down,  in  and  out, 
forward  and  back  and,  finally,  place  it  on  your  left  knee, 
pound  and  rub  it  with  a  hammer  and  teach  him  to  hold  it  until 
you  choose  to  let  it  go.  If  he  undertakes  to  kick,  hang  hold 
of  the  free  end  of  the  safety-rein  and  let  him  kick  in  the  slack. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES. 


19 


He  will  quit  it.  If  lie  is  simply  restless  and  tries  to  take  away 
his  foot,  give  him  the  "controlliug  touch"  with  the  near  leader. 
Remember  and  repeat  every  lesson  on  the  opposite  side  by 
putting  the  near  leader  through  the  loop  on  the  near  over-draw, 
tossing  it  over  the  neck  and  giving  the  "controlling  touch" 
with  the  left  hand.  Handle  every  part  of  your  colt  thoroughly 
and  educate  every  joint.  Educating  one  part  of  a  horse  doesn't 
educate  the  other  parts. 


Fig.  7. 

POSITIOX  FOR  EDUCATING  THE   COLT  TO  I'ICK  UP  HIS   IIIXD    FEET,  ANU 
CONTROLLING  A  laCICER  FOR  SHOEING,  ETC. 


TO  EDUCATE  THE  COLT  TO  START  AT  THE  "CLUCK' 

AND  TAP  OF  THE  WHIP,  AND  TO  STOP  AT  THE 

WORD  "WHOA." 


Put  on  bridle  for  full  control  and  take  position  as  in  fig.  5, 
holding  both  leaders  in  left  hand  at  corner  of  jaw.  Take  the 
whip  in  right  hand.  Touch  him  to  the  front  with  the  off  leader 
over  the  neck,  at  the  same  time  cluck,  and  follow  the  cluck 
with  a  tap  of  the  whip  on  his  back  forward  of  his  hips.  Let 
him  go  a  short  distance,  say  "  whoa,"  and  stop  him  by  press- 
ing downward    and    backward  on    both    leaders.     Repeat  this 


:20  .        riioaiiESSivE  conthol  over 

uutil  he  lias  learned  to  start  at  the  cluck  without  a  touch  on 
the  leaders,  and  as  you  see  that  he  understands  the  signal  to 
start,  gradually  work  away  from  him  on  the  leaders,  letting 
3)im  circle  around  3'ou  to  the  left ;  and  when  you  have  reached 
Ihe  end  of  the  leaders,  as  he  is  circling  about  you,  work  slowly 
closer  to  him  and  touch  backward  on  the  near  leader  until  he 
understands  that  a  pull  on  that  side  of  the  bit  means  for  him 
lo  turn  to  the  left  when  the  leader  is  held  along  his  near  side. 
Then  reverse  your  leaders  and  do  the  same  on  the  off  side  ; 
gradually  working  up  to  him  and  touching  on  the  off  leader 
:imtil  he  learns  that  it  means  for  him  to  turn  to  the  right.  He 
lias  now  learned  the  meaning  of  a  pressure  on  either  side  of 
the  bit  and  is  a  "  reiner  "  as  far  as  his  head  is  concerned. 
'Then  take  position  as  in  fig.  3,  touch  him  to  the  front  with 
Ihe  off  leader,  at  the  same  time  clucking  to  him,  and  when  he 
lias  stepped  one  step  say  "  whoa,"  at  the  same  time  touching 
straight  down  on  both  leaders  ;  and  teach  him  to  step  one  foot 
r.t  a  time  and  stop  when  he  is  commanded  to  do  so.  Repeat 
this  lesson  three  or  four  times  for  five  minutes  each  until  he 
^ill  step  and  stop  when  commanded. 

The  whip  should  be  used  simply  to  get  motion  to  the  front 
-when  the  horse  does  not  respond  sufficiently  to  the  word,  and 
never  as  a  punishment,  and  no  horse  is  properly  educated  or 
safe  to  drive  until  he  is  under  such  control  of  the  whip  that  he 
will  respond  to  it  and  go  to  the  front  every  time  it  is  applied 
properly.  The  colt  should  be  taught  to  not  fear  the  sight  or 
sound  of  a  whip.  This  can  be  accomplished  by  holding  both 
leaders  in  the  left  hand,  as  in  fig.  5,  playing  and  flourishing 
Ihe  whip  all  about  the  colt  and  giving  him  the  "  controlling 
touch"  if  he  objects  to  it.  Do  not  strike  a  horse  back  of  his 
loins  with  a  whip,  for  it  tends  to  make  switchers  and  kickers, 
also  to  break  his  gait  when  trotting,  as  he  will  rise  behind  to 
Tesist  the  whip  if  applied  back  of  his  loins.  On  the  shoulder 
is  the  best  place  to  apply  the  whip,  and  it  should  be  used  with 
a  smart  tap,  just  sufficient  to  get  the  required  motion  necessary 
to  enable  you  to  guide  him.     You  have  the  right  to  use  the 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  21 

whip  snrficieutly  severe  to  put  him  to  the  front,  aud  no  more^ 
for  your  or  your  family's  safety  will  often  depend  on  the 
horse's  obedience  to  the  whip  in  that  respect. 

Do  not  work  your  colts  in  a  circle  too  long  nor  too  fast  at  ci 
time,  as  it  tends  to  injure  the  brain  and  eyesight.  The  old 
practice  of  "  luugeing  "  is  practically  given  up  by  thinking; 
horsemen.  The  object  in  teaching  the  colt  to  step  one  foot  at 
a  time  and  then  stop,  is  two-fold.  First,  your  design  should 
be  to  keep  him  impressed  with  the  idea  of  ^^our  superiority- 
over  him,  and  compelling  him  to  go  through  such  little  maneu- 
vers not  only  holds  but  increases  your  control,  and  helps  to 
bring  his  mind  under  discipline.  Second,  it  is  educational. 
He  will  be  required  at  some  time  in  the  future  to  step  ahead  a 
little  and  then  stop,  and  now  is  the  time  to  educate  him  to  do 
it.  In  educating  the  colt  you  should  exercise  your  ingenuity 
and  teach  him  to  do  everything  possible  that  he  will  be  required 
to  do  in  the  future  ;  put  him  in  all  possible  positions  in  compli- 
cation with  poles,  ropes,  straps,  boxes,  brush,  etc.,  and  teach 
him  to  extricate  himself  with  ease  and  intellig:ence. 


LESSON  YI. 

INTRODUCING  THE  HARNESS  TO  THE  COLT. 

Have  bridle  on  for  full  control  and  take  position  as  in  fig. 
o,  with  saddle  part  of  the  harness  in  right  hand.  Quietly 
raise  the  harness  over  the  left  arm  and  bring  it  to  the  colt's 
face.  Play  it  about  his  face  until  he  doesn't  notice  it,  then 
pass  it  over  his  head  and  rub  him  all  over  his  body  aud  legs 
with  it.  Then  toss  it  on  him,  gently  at  first,  then  more  vio- 
lently until  he  will  allow  it  to  be  tossed  in  the  air  and  alight 
on  him  anywhere.  If  he  objects  correct  him  with  the  ''  con- 
trolling touch  "  and  say '•  whoa."  Finally,  place  the  harness 
on  him,  buckle  the  girths,  place  the  crupper  carefully  under 
his  tail  and  buckle  it.     The  oirths  should  not  be   buckled  too 


22  PROGRESSIVE    COXTROL    O^  ER 

tightly  at  first,  and  all  cruppers  should  be  made  with  buckles, 
not  only  for  convenience  and  safety,  but  also  because  it  will 
admit  of  cruppering  without  getting  your  hands  and  person 
soiled  by  contact  with  a  foul  tail,  and  avoid  the  trouble  of 
tucking  a  heavy  tail  through  a  small  crupper. 


LESSON  VII. 

LAYING  THE  COLT  OR  HORSE  DOWN. 

Put  on  bridle,  have  the  keeper  down  to  full  control  and  the 
loops  buckled  close  to  the    crown-piece.     Have  both  leaders 


Fig.  8. 

POSITION  FOR  LAYING  A  COLT   OK  HORSE   DOWX. 

hanging  from  bit-rings.  Put  on  saddle,  back-strap  and  crupper. 
Snap  one  of  the  reining-rings  to  the  off  terret-ring  or  to  the 
water-hook.  Put  the  off  leader  through  the  reining-ring. 
Take  up  near  fore  foot  either  to  a  ring  on  the  girth  or  with  a 
knee-strap.  Stand  on  near  side  by  the  shoulder.  Grasp  near 
leader  with  left  hand  close  to  the  bit  and  take  end  of  off 
leader  in  right  hand  as  in  fig.  8.     Cluck  to  him  and  start  him 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  23 

to  the  left.  When  he  steps  with  the  off  fore  foot,  hold  him 
and  he  will  come  to  his  knee.  Then  toss  his  head  to  the  right 
with  the  left  hand,  at  the  same  time  pulling  forward  on  the  off 
leader  with  the  right  hand.  You  will  pull  his  nose  around  to 
his  off  shoulder  and  he  will  lie  over  on  his  near  side.  Then  tie 
a  knot  in  the  off  leader  close  to  the  reining-ring  and  3^ou  have 
him  fast.  Then  handle  him  all  over  with  a  pole,  harness,  etc., 
and  teach  him  to  lie  quietly.  Soon  you  can  release  his  head 
and  by  holding  it  down  keep  him  from  rising.  "When  he  does 
not  resist,  caress  him  and  give  him  a  bite  of  apple  when  he 
arises. 

It  is  a  good  idea  to  lay  a  colt  down  a  few  times  and  pole  him 
about  his  body  and  legs  so  as  to  teach  him  to  lie  quietly  in  case 
he  ever  gets  down  by  accident.  Besides  this,  it  adds  to  your 
control  over  him  and  gives  him  an  idea  of  your  superiority. 
If  when  he  comes  to  his  knee,  he  should  struggle,  don't 
hold  him  to  it  but  let  him  come  up  and  try  again.  Holding 
him  to  it  only  tends  to  make  him  frantic  ;  and  by  trying  again 
you  explain  to  him  what  you  want  him  to  do. 


LESSON  VIII. 
BITTING  THE  COLT. 


Have  the  saddle  on  as  in  the  preceding  lesson.  Put  the 
keeper  up  on  the  over-draws  just  below  the  eyes.  Then  take 
a  pliable  rope  (cotton  is  best)  size  of  a  clothes  line  and  about 
eighteen  feet  long,  tie  one  end  into  the  thill-lug  on  near  side, 
pass  the  other  end  through  the  near  bit  ring,  then  through  the 
loop  on  the  near  over-draw,  then  under  the  water  hook,  then 
through  loop  on  off  over-draw,  then  through  off  bit-ring  and 
to  thill-lug  on  off  side.     Draw  the  rope  snug,  tie  into  the  thill- 


24  PKOGRi:S.SI\  E    CONTROL    OA^ER 

lug  and  let  the  colt  work  around  ou  the  stable  floor  or  ia  the 
yard  for  not  more  thau  half  au  howr.  Don't  bit  too  tight  the 
first  time.  When  you  finish  his  next  lesson  bit  a  little  tighter  and 
increase  it  after  each  lesson  until  you  get  the  desired  result. 
You  can  get  the  same  result  by  using  any  bridle  or  bit  and 
running  the  rope  through  the  bit-ring,  then  through  the  check- 
loop  on  the  throat-latch, 

I  recognize  but  two  objects  to  be  attained  by  bitting  the  colt, 
viz.  :  to  teach  him  to  stand  under  the  check  and  to  bear  a  rea- 
sonable pressure  ou  the  bit  when  driving.  Every  other  desired 
result  can  be  obtained  by  bridle-handling  and  continuing  his 
education  as  described  in  this  book. 


LESSON  IX. 
PUTTING  OX  THE  BREAST-PLATE. 

Before  you  begin  to  educate  the  colt  to  be  driven  with  reins, 
put  on  the  breast-plate  and  tie  the  tugs  into  the  breeching  so 
that  he  will  feel  the  pressure  of  the  breeching  and  breast-plate 
every  time  he  steps  ;  and  the  tugs  should  be  tightened  from 
time  to  time,  as  he  gets  accustomed  to  it,  until  finally  they  are 
so  tight  that  he  will  be  pulling  more  than  he  will  be  required  to 
pull  if  he  were  hitched  into  a  single  vehicle.  They  should 
also  be  tight  when  he  is  educated  to  back  by  the  reins  ;  then 
he  will  not  refuse  to  back  in  the  breeching  to  a  vehicle. 

Some  colts  are  broke  to  collar  and  hames  with  another  horse, 
and  when  asked  to  go  single  in  a  breast-plate  they  will  try  to 
step  over  and  out  of  it.  If  the  breast-plate  were  put  on  them, 
the  tugs  tied  in  the  breeching  and  they  were  w^orked  about  on 
the  floor  for  twenty  minutes  they  would  give  no  trouble. 


COLTS    AND    HOUSES. 


25 


LESSON  X. 

TO  GET  THE  COLT  UNDER  CONTROL  OF  THE  REINS. 

Put  on  bridle  and  have  the  keeper  well  down,  though  not 
quite  at  full  control.  Buckle  the  loops  on  over-draws  about 
three  inches  from  crown-piece.  Lay  the  near  loop  on  the  side 
of  the  colt's  neck  just  half  way  between  the  throat-latch  and 
the  roots  of  the  mane.     Run  the  near  leader  throuo-h  the  near 


Fig.  0. 

BRIDLK,   KEINS,   THOXO  FOU  CHECKING,    REINIXG-RIXGS,  AND   SATETV   KEIX 
ADJUSTED  FOR  GIVIXG  REIXIXG  LESSOXS. 

loop,  and  when  it  is  taut  between  the  bit  and  loop,  hold  it  and 
the  loop  together  with  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand,  and  with 
the  right  hand  make  a  knot  in  the  leader  below  the  loop.  Fix 
the  off  leader  in  the  off  loop  in  the  same  manner  and  at  exactly 
the  same  place.  Put  on  the  saddle  and  buckle  the  girths  and 
crupper,  add  the  breast-plate  and  tie  the  tugs  into  the  breech- 
ing. Snap  the  reiniug-rings  (a  description  of  which  you  will 
see  in  fig.  2)  into  the  buckles  on  the  inner  girth.  Run  your 
leaders  thuough  the  reining-rings,  buckle  the  hand-pieces  on  to 


:2() 


PROGRESSIVE    CONTROL    OVER 


the  leaders,  buckle  them  together  aud  let  them  lay  across  the 
colt's  back.  Take  a  leather  thong  as  described  in  fig.  2,  or 
piece  of  rope  size  of  a  clothes-liue  and  fourteen  feet  long,  tie 
one  end  in  the  near  terret-ring,  put  the  other  end  through  the 
near  loop,  then  under  the  water-hook,  then  through  the  off 
loop,  then  tie  it  to  the  off  terret-ring,  letting  the  colt  have 
about  four  inches  slack  from  a  natural  carriage  of  his  head. 
Then  snap  the  safety  rein  on  to  the  near  bit-ring,  and  every- 


Fia.  10. 


POSITIOX   OF  TUAIXER  IX   BEGINNING  TO   REIN  THE  COLT,   AND  TO   PROPYL  A 
HORSE  TO  THE  FRONT  BY  TOSSING  THE  SAFETY-REIN. 


thing  is  in  readiness  for  handling  aud  educating  your  colt  as  is 
shown  in  fig.  9.  Now  gather  the  safety  rein  in  the  left  hand 
and  grasp  it  firmly  a  few  feet  from  the  bit.  With  the  whip  in 
the  right  hand  also  take  hold  of  the  reins  with  the  right  hand 
and  toss  them  over  his  rump,  letting  them  lay  about  his 
haunches  as  in  fig.  10.  If  he  resents  this  and  tries  to  kick, 
drop  the  reins  below  his  hocks  and  hold  them  snug  to  his  heels. 
He  will  stop  it.  Then  cluck  to  him  and  start  him  about  you  to 
the  left.     As  he  gets  accustomed  to  the  situation  gradually 


COLTS    AND   HORSES.  27 

work  away  from  him  on  the  safety-rein,  at  the  same  time  pull- 
ing gently  from  time  to  time  on  the  off  rein  until  you  see  that 
he  answers  to  it  and  will  turn  to  the  right  when  you  touch  on 
that  rein.  Gradually  enlarge  the  circle  and  work  back  on  the 
safety-rein  until  you  are  at  the  end  of  the  reins  and  he  goes 
about  pleasantly.  Then  change  the  safety-rein  to  the  off  side, 
take  it  in  your  right  hand,  the  whip  and  reins  in  your  left,  toss 
the  reins  about  his  haunches  and  work  him  in  a  circle  to  the 
right,  pulling  on  the  near  rein  until  he  answers  to  it,  and  working 
gradually  away  from  him  on  the  safety-rein  until  you  are  at  the 
end  of  the  reins  again.  Then  let  him  walk  about  the  floor, 
reining  him  from  right  to  left,  easy  at  first,  then  gradually 
harder  as  you  see  that  he  understands  what  is  wanted  of  him, 
until  finally,  you  can  grasp  the  reins  firmly  and  begin  to  change 
his  direction  suddenly  from  one  side  to  another,  and  break  him 
np  thoroughly  on  the  reins  from  right  to  left,  pulling  strongly 
across  his  haunches  with  the  reins  and  teaching  him  to  move 
his  body  with  his  head.  Handle  him  in  this  w^ay,  letting  him 
rest  from  time  to  time,  until  he  will  answer  readily  at  a  slight 
touch  on  either  rein.     Your  colt  is  now  a  good  reiner. 

While  handling  him  as  above  described,  3^ou  should  use  the 
whip  enough  to  give  you  motion  to  handle  on.  If  he  should 
get  sulky  and  refuse  to  go,  step  to  his  side  as  in  fig.  10,  about 
eight  feet  away  and  toss  the  safety-rein  forward  so  as  to  throw 
the  bit  to  the  roof  of  his  mouth.  This  will  start  him.  If  he 
should  come  out,  as  i.i  sometimes  the  case,  duller  on  one  rein 
than  the  other,  work  him  about  on  the  dull  side  until  you  get 
his  mouth  evened  up. 

The  next  thing  to  do,  is  to  drive  the  colt  about  the  stable 
and  yard  and  hunt  for  places  where  he  will  refuse  to  go.  As 
often  as  you  find  them,  step  to  his  side  about  eight  feet  from 
him,  as  in  fig.  10,  and  throw  the  safety-rein  to  the  front,  at  the 
same  time  grasping  the  reins,  which  are  about  his  haunches, 
with  the  other  hand,  as  in  fig.  10,  and  tapping  him  with  the  whip 
until  he  goes  where  you  want  him  to.  Repeat  this  two  or  three 
times  until  you  can  step  behind  him  and  drive  him  to  the  spot 


28  PliOGKESSIVE    CONTKOL    OVEIl 

without  tossing  the  safet3'-rein.  Drive  him  into  every  corner 
of  the  stable  and  to  the  wall,  making  him  stand  with  his  nose 
close  to  it.  When  you  take  him  into  the  yard  and  road,  drive 
him  through  soft  places,  puddles  of  water,  brash,  up  to  fences 
and  fence-corners,  up  steep  places  and  over  boards  and  ditches. 
He  will  refuse  to  go  to  most  of  these  places  and  you  will  have 
an  opportunity  to  compel  him. 

The  object  in  hunting  for  places  to  which  he  will  refuse  to 
go,  is  to  get  an  opportunity  to  discipline  him  and  get  it  into  his 
head  that  he  must  go  wherever  you  ask  him  to.  Your  object, 
also,  is  to  educate  him  to  answer  to  the  tap  of  the  whip  and 
the  word  of  command  so  that  he  will  obey  them  every  time  ; 
for,  as  I  have  said  before,  he  will  not  be  properly  educated  nor 
safe  to  drive  until  he  will  do  so.  Every  horse  should  be  edu- 
cated to  be  whipped  ;  yet  there  are  some  that  you  cannot  w4iip 
in  order  to  educate  them  to  be  whipped.  Still  you  should  have 
some  means  of  getting  them  to  go  to  the  front  when  com- 
manded, else  you  are  liable  to  get  into  a  bad  predicament  at 
some  time.  Here  is  where  the  benefits  of  the  safety-rein  come 
in  ;  for  no  horse  can  resist  the  forward  toss  of  that  rein,  which 
thumps  the  bit  to  the  roof  of  his  mouth,  and  by  tapping  him 
with  the  whip  when  you  toss  the  safety-rein  to  the  front, 
although  it  is  the  rein  which  really  compels  him  to  go,  by 
repeating  it  a  few  times  he  connects  the  toss  of  the  rehi  with 
the  tap  of  the  whip  and  it  soon  becomes  the  whip  that  does  it. 
In  this  way  every  colt  or  horse  can  be  taught  to  answer  to  the 
whip.  You  cannot  be  too  faithful  in  searching  for  places  to 
which  the  colt  will  refuse  to  go,  nor  too  patient  and  persistent 
in  compelling  him  to  go.  If  you  cannot  find  any  such  place 
on  your  own  premises,  go  out  into  the  road  or  on  your 
neighbor's  premises  and  hunt  until  you  do  find  them  ;  for  if 
you  don't  find  them  for  him  during  his  early  training  he  will 
find  them  himself  in  the  future,  and  your  negligence  will  cause 
destruction  to  life,  limb,  or  property.  A  colt  that  has  never 
refused  to  obey  is  unsafe  to  drive,  for  no  chance  has  been  had 
to  discipline  him.     Failure  to  take  the  above  precaution  has 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  29 

resulted  in  more  destruction  to  life  nnd  property  by  unruly 
horses  than  any  other  cause.  Want  of  discipline  is  inexcus- 
able. Too  severe  discipline  may  be  excused  if  the  results  are 
gratifying. 

The  safety-rein  will  give  you  the  advantage  over  the  colt  or 
horse  in  many  ways  ;  but  its  great  value  is  in  the  fact  that  it 
allows  you  to  retain  your  control  as  you  gradually  work  back 
to  the  end  of  the  reins.  Before  you  attached  the  safety-rein 
to  the  bit,  all  your  handling  had  been  mainly  at  the  head  and 
you  had  obtained  perfect  control  there.  If  you  were  now  to 
go  to  the  end  of  the  reins  without  the  safety-rein  to  run  back 
on,  there  would  be  fourteen  feet  over  which  you  had  not 
handled  and  controlled,  and  it  would  take  you  a  long  time  to 
regain  your  mastery  there.  But  with  the  safety-rein  to  work 
back  on,  you  retain  your  control  as  you  go,  and  remain  just 
as  much  master  at  the  end  of  the  reins  as  you  were  at  the 
head  ;  besides  which,  3'ou  keep  the  colt's  attention  upon  your- 
self as  you  go,  which  is  necessary  in  order  to  educate  him 
■easily. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  not  handle  or  try  to  educate  the  colt 
when  he  is  tired.  Whenever  he  shows  signs  of  weariness,  put 
him  up  and  let  him  rest.  You  cannot  make  a  proper  impres- 
sion on  a  wearied  colt's  mind. 

Feed  him  well  when  handling  and  keep  him  in  good  strength 
and  spirits.  Avoid  getting  angry.  Be  patient,  firm  and  per- 
sistent in  all  you  undertake  with  him. 


LESSON    XI. 

TO  EDUCATE  THE  COLT  TO  BACK  BY  THE  REINS. 

Have  bridle  on  for  full  control  and  reins  arran2;ed  as  in  fiof. 
9,  with  knots  in  leaders  below  the  loops  and  the  leaders 
through  the  "  reining-rings "  ;  also  have  on  "safety-rein." 
Take  position  behind  the  colt  and  grasp  reins  firmly  in  both 


30  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

hands.  Begin  to  pull  back  steadily  on  the  reins,  gradually 
increasing  the  pull  until  he  steps  back  ;  and  the  moment  he 
does,  slack  away  on  the  reius  and  show  him  he  has  done  right. 
Then  pull  back  again  slowh^  and  repeat  until  he  readily  backs 
when  you  pull.  Then  pull  and  say  "  back,"  and  repeat  until 
he  knows  what  "  back  "  means.  It  will  now  be  necessary  to 
contrive  some  place  where  he  will  refuse  to  back,  and  when  he 
does,  grasp  the  "  safety-rein  "  in  the  left  hand  aud  shake  back- 
ward on  it,  at  the  same  time  pulling  steadily  back  on  the  reins 
with  the  right  hand.  The  tugs  should  be  tied  into  the  breech- 
ing so  he  will  be  backing  against  a  tight  breeching,  and  he 
should  be  reined  about  on  the  floor  and  in  the  yard  while  back- 
ing, so  as  to  teach  him  to  be  reined  in  backing. 

Some  colts  will  sulk  and  fight  while  being  taught  to  back  on 
the  rein,  but  you  must  keep  cool.  If  he  braces  and  refuses  to 
back,  just  brace  yourself  and  keep  one  steady  pull.  He  will 
soon  yield  and  step  back.  If  he  should  begin  to  sway  and 
attempt  to  throw  himself,  slack  away  on  the  reins,  and  when 
he  stops,  pull  steadily  back  again.  If  he  should  succeed  in 
throwing  himself,  turn  his  nose  into  the  air  and  turn  a  teacup- 
full  of  water  down  one  nostril.  This  will  bring  any  horse  to 
his  feet  if  he  is  alive.  Do  not  try  to  force  him  to  back  too 
soon.  Work  easy  at  first  until  he  thoroughly  understands 
what  you  want,  then  force  him  gradually.  Teach  him  to  stop 
backing  at  the  word  "whoa."  He  should  be  taught  that 
"  whoa"  means  to  stop  aud  stand  still,  no  matter  what  he  may 
be  doing.  ^Yhen  he  first  backs,  he  simply  does  it  because  he 
wants  to.  There  is  a  difference  between  the  horse  that  does  a 
thing  because  he  wants  to  and  one  that  does  it  because  you 
want  him  to  ;  and,  in  order  to  get  him  to  do  it  because  you 
want  him  to,  you  must  get  him  to  refuse  and  then  force  him 
beyond  his  refusal.     He  is  then  discipliiied,  and  not  before. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  Si 


LESSON    XII. 

TO  EDUCATE  THE  COLT  TO  STAND  AT  THE  WORD  "WHOA" 
EROM    BEHIND. 

This  can  be  done  while  you  are  giving  him  his  reining  lessons. 
Have  bridle  and  reins  as  in  lig.  9.  When  driving  him  about 
the  floor  and  yard  occasionally  say  "  whoa,"  at  the  same  time 
setting  back  on  the  reins  sufficiently  to  stop  him,  and  repeat 
this  until  he  will  stop  at  the  word  on  a  slack  rein. 

Speak  only  the  word  "  whoa,"  unless  he  is  a  trotter,  when 
you  should  educate  him  to  stop  at  some  other  word,  or  some 
one  might  "whoa"  him  on  the  track  and  you  would  "get 
left."  After  saying  "  whoa"  don't  speak  to  him  if  he  moves, 
but  correct  him  with  a  slight  tug  on  the  rein,  and  teach  him  to 
micd  the  one  command.  Never  jerk  on  a  slack  rein  to  correct 
the  horse  under  any  consideration,  but  tighten  the  rein  and 
give  a  pull  on  it ;  it  is  far  more  effective  as  a  correction  and 
will  not  get  him  afraid  of  his  mouth. 


LESSON   XIII. 


TO   EDUCATE   THE    COLT   TO   THE    SHAFTS    AND    TO 
PROPERLY    SHAFT   HIM. 

Have  bridle  on  for  full  control.  Holding  both  leaders  in 
left  hand  at  corner  of  jaw  as  in  fig.  5,  bring  him  up  to  the 
shafts  with  his  head  towards  the  vehicle.  Reach  under  left 
arm  and  pick  shafts  up  with  right  hand.  Hold  them  up  to  his 
head  until  he  examines  them.  Then  rub  his  neck  and  head 
with  them,  and,  as  he  gradually  gets  used  to  them,  touch  him 
in  with  the  left  hand,  rub  the  shafts  all  about  his  body  and 
legs  and  let  them  drop  on  the  floor  and  rattle  about  him. 
Then  back  him  out,  stand  him  square  to  the  ends  of  the  shafts, 


62  riiOGRESSIVE    CONTIIOL    OVER 

bold  him  in  control  with  the  left,  while  with  the  right  you  raise 
the  shafts  up  and  run  them  straddle  of  his  fore  legs,  then  in 
between  his  fore  and  hind  legs,  rub  and  thump  bis  belly  with 
Ibem,  then  run  them  straddle  of  his  hind  legs  and  rub  them 
against  his  heels  and  gambrels.  Then  place  them  on  his  back, 
square  across  him,  and  rub  and  thump  him  with  them  until  he 
shows  no  objection.  If  he  objects  give  him  the  *' controlling 
touch"  with  the  left  hand.  Finally,  with  the  left  arm  of  the 
.shaft  in  the  right  hand  and  the  right  arm  laying  on  his  croup, 


Fiff.  11. 

POSITIOX  FOR   SHAFTIKG  THE  COLT   OR  HORSE  AS   IN   LESSON  XIII. 


:as  in  fig;.  11,  touch  him  under  the  chin  with  the  left  hand  ;  he 
will  whirl  under  the  shafts  and  they  will  drop  down  to  his  side. 
You  now  have  the  colt  in  the  shafts,  you  have  hold  of  him  with 
one  hand  and  the  shafts  with  the  other.  You  can  then  play 
them  all  about  him  and  rub  the  cross-bar  against  his  haunches 
until  he  is  indifferent  to  them.  If  he  objects,  give  him  the 
*'  controlling  touch." 

Another  pretty  method  of  shafting  a  colt,  or  horse  of  low 
stature,  is  to  bring  him  up  to  the  near  arm  of  the  shaft  and 
square  to  it,  with  the  left  hand.  Cross  the  right  arm  over  the 
left,  pick  up  the  near  arm  of  the  shaft  in  the  right  hand,  raise 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  33 

it  lip  above  the  oolt's  head  and  lead  him  under  with  the  left 
hand,  whirling  on  your  heels  as  he  comes  under  and  turning 
him  to  the  left.  When  he  gets  under,  drop  the  shafts  about 
him  and  then  play  them  all  about  his  body  and  legs.  In  a 
dozen  lessons  any  colt  can  be  taught  to  go  under  the  shafts  in 
this  way,  and  he  w411  bring  ten  dollars  more. 

Inasmuch  as  the  shafts  and  vehicle  are  going  to  be  his  com- 
panions through  life,  it  is  but  fair  that  he  should  be  given  a 
proper  introduction  to  and  have  a  fair  acquaintance  with  them. 
No  colt  or  horse  is  properly  educated  until  he  will  stand  the 
cross-bar  against  his  heels  or  the  shaft  between  his  legs  with- 
out fear  ;  and  with  the  perfect  control  that  my  bridle  gives,  it 
is  as  easy  to  educate  him  to  the  cross-bar  as  it  is  to  the 
breeching.  The  perfect  education  of  the  colt  in  this  respect  is 
necessary  for  the  safety  of  ^'our  wives  and  children.  Many 
loved  ones  have  been  killed  or  maimed  and  much  valuable 
property  destroyed,  which  is  the  direct  result  of  carelessness 
and  indifference  on  the  part  of  those  who  call  themselves  "  colt 
trainers." 

Make  it  a  rule  throughout  the  education  of  the  colt,  to 
reward  him  with  a  caress  and  word  of  approval  every  time  he 
obeys  you.  He  will  soon  learn  to  know  when  3^ou  say  "  thank 
you  "  to  him  by  caressing  him  ;  and,  after  you  have  repeated 
it  a  few  times  you  will  notice  him  ducking  his  head  to  you  and 
saying  "  3^ou're  welcome"  just  as  plain  as  he  can  talk,  —  and 
horses  do  have  a  way  of  talking  to  man. 

When  educating  the  colt,  it  should  be  a  rule  to  give  him  a 
rehearsal  of  his  first  lesson  before  you  proceed  with  his  second, 
and  rehearse  the  first  two  before  you  give  him  the  third,  and  so 
on  to  the  end  of  his  lessons.  Then  when  you  are  all  through, 
give  him  two  or  three  rehearsals  of  them  all  so  as  to  fix  them 
on  his  mind ;  and  these  rehearsals  should  be  repeated,  until  he 
goes  through  each  performance  in  a  pleasant  manner  and 
without  shaking  his  head  or  showing  evidence  of  unwillingness  : 
for  just  so  long  as  he  exhibits  a  sign  of  wilfulness  he  is  not 
safe  to  drive.     You  may  be  able  to  drive  him,  but  you  cannot 


34  rilOGKESSIVE    COXTIIOL    OYER 

afford  to  jeopardize  him  or  yourself  ;  for  one  colt,  not  fully- 
disciplined,  can  do  more  damage  than  would  pay  for  the  per- 
fect education  of  a  dozen.  You  may  l^e  in  a  hurry  to  get  him 
out  on  the  road,  and  you  may  think  that,  to  follow  these  rules 
entails  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  takes  a  great  deal  of  time ; 
but  consider  that,  when  you  do  start  out  with  him,  you  have 
an  educated  colt  and  one  that  will  be  a  credit  to  you  and  your 
skill,  and  the  result  will  satisfy  you.  Neither  does  it  actually 
take  so  much  time  to  educate  him  by  following  these  rules  as 
it  would  to  harness  him  in,  start  him  on  the  road  and  let  him 
pick  up  his  education  ;  for,  by  this  method  it  will  take  less 
than  a  dozen  lessons  of  one  and  a  half  hour  each  to  educate 
him  perfectly,  while  the  old  process  will  require  months  of 
driving,  and  you  incur  the  risk  of  your  colt's  getting  the  better 
of  you  and  acquiring  some  bad  habit.'  Kemember  that  it  is 
the  education  of  the  colt  that  brings  the  money,  and  you  will 
spare  the  necessary  time. 


LESSON   XIY. 

DRIVING   THE    COLT   TO    A   VEHICLE. 

Have  the  harness  on  properly,  be  sure  there  are  no  weak 
places  in  it  and  see  that  it  fits  well  to  him.  Have  the  keeper 
about  two  inches  above  full  control.  Buckle  the  loops  half- 
way down  to  the  ends  of  the  over-draws.  Have  the  throat- 
latch  reasonably  loose.  Snap  the  reining-rings  in  the  buckles 
above  the  thill-lugs.  Eun  the  leaders  through  the  loops,  then 
through  the  reining-rings  and  buckle  on  the  hand-pieces. 
Snap  the  safety-rein  on  the  near  bit-ring,  adjust  reins  and 
bridle  as  in  fig.  12,  and  add  the  thong  for  a  check.  Drive  the 
colt  about  the  yard  and  road  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then 
lay  the  reins  across  his  back  and  shaft  him  as  in  Lesson  XIII, 
While  hitching  tugs  and  hold-backs,  have  safety -rein  in  one 
hand.      Fasten    the    tugs    first   then    the    hold-baclvs.      When 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  35 

all  is  ready,  take  safety  reiu  in  left  hand  a  few  feet  from  the 
bit,  and  whip  and  reins  in  right  hand  with  the  off  rein  about 
his  haunches  as  in  fig.  10.  Start  hhn  up  a  rod  then  stop  and 
let  him  examine  things.  Start  him  farther  and  stop  again. 
Then  start  him  in  a  circle  to  the  left,  and  as  you  see  that  he 
understands  it,  gradually  wo¥k  away  from  him  on  the  safety- 
rein  and  enlarge  the  circle  by  pulling  on  the  off  rein  about  his 
haunches.  When  you  have  worked  back  to  the  end  of  the 
reins  and  he  goes  well,  change  the  safety  rein  to  the  off  side 


Fig.  72. 

ARRAXGEMEXT  OF  REIXS  AXD   OA-ERDRAWS   FOR  DKIVIXG  IXTIL  THOROUGHLY 

EDUCATED, 

and  work  him  in  a  circle  to  the  right  until  you  have  worked 
back  to  the  end  of  the  reins.  Then  drive  him  about  in  a  figure 
8,  changing  from  one  side  to  the  other  as  you  do  so.  You  can 
soon  step  up  on  the  vehicle  and  ride  a  ways,  first  on  one  side 
then  the  other.  Then  you  can  soon  drive  about  the  yard  and 
finally  on  to  the  road.  When  on  the  road,  carry  the  safety- 
rein  on  near  side  in  left  hand,  and  when  you  meet  a  team,  if 
he  stops  to  "  neighbor"  with  other  horses,  as  most  colts  will, 
toss  the  safety-rein  to  the  front ;  and  if  he  acts  afraid  of  the 
team,  lean   over  to  the  left  and   hold    him  up   to   it  with   the 


;3i)  PROGRESSIVE    COXTROL    OVER 

safet^^-reiu .  After  passing  a  few  teams  he  will  not  notice 
lliem.  Give  the  colt  short  drives  until  he  gets  hardened  to  the 
Toad.  Drive  out  on  different  roads  each  time,  and  don't  turn 
him  about  in  the  same  place  when  repeating  your  drives  on  the 
same  road.  If  you  turn  into  a  yard  one  day,  drive  past  that 
yard  the  next  time  you  go  that  w^y.  Don't  let  the  colt  get  in 
a  habit  of  wandering  along  in  the  road  between  the  ruts. 
Jveep  a  firm  rein  always,  on  colt  or  horse,  and  occasionally 
Tein  the  colt  out  from  one  side  of  the  road  to  the  other ;  and 
Tvhen  you  can,  drive  him  outside  of  the  road  along  the  fences, 
turn  him  around  in  the  road  and  back  him  in  different  direc- 
tions and  places.  In  fact,  teach  him  to  go  everywhere  you 
Tein  him  ;  and  when  you  drive  in  the  track  made  by  other 
liorses,  have  him  go  there  because  you  want  him  to,  not  from 
lorce  of  habit. 

Don't  watch  the  wheels  to  see  if  they  are  in  the  ruts.  Keep 
vour  eyes  about  thirty  feet  ahead  of  jour  horse,  see  that  he 
goes  in  the  proper  place  anl  the  vehicle  will  follow.  In  driv- 
ing colts  or  timid  horses,  it  is  your  duty  to  keep  watch  ahead 
ioY  dogs,  children,  stumps,  logs,  piles  of  wood,  brush  or  lumber, 
Tocks,  cattle  or  horses  in  the  road  or  fields,  etc.,  etc.,  and  see 
them  before  the  colt  does  ;  and  if  he  pricks  his  ears  or  gives 
evidence  of  shying,  be  ready  for  him.  The  proper  thing  to  do 
on  such  occasions,  is  to  move  the  bit  in  his  mouth  by  trigging 
slightly  on  first  one  rein  then  the  other,  thus  taking  his  attention 
lo  his  mouth  and  reminding  him  of  the  control,  speak  to  him, 
iind  if  he  hesitates  to  go  to  the  front  tap  him  with  the  whip  ; 
if  that  doesn't  do,  toss  the  safety-rein  to  the  front.  Teach  the 
colt  to  slow  up  iu  rough  and  trot  along  in  smooth  places. 
Don't  be  in  a  hurry  to  make  a  trotter  of  him.  Don't  drive 
too  long  nor  too  fast  at  a  time.  Don't  work  your  colt  on  the 
road  after  he  gets  weary.  Feed  well  when  training.  Don't 
check  high ;  give  him  at  least  four  inches  below  the  natural 
carriage  of  the  head.  Use  the  leather  thong  or  rope  as  a 
check,  until  he  is  well  educated.  Handle  him  about  the  stable 
raid  yard  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  before  hitching  him  up  the 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  o7 

first  five  times.     It  serves   to  get   him   imder   control.     Teacli 
him  to  stand  still  after  hitching  up,  until  you  tell  him  to  go. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  let  up  too  much  nor  too  suddenly  witli 
your  control.  Until  the  colt  gets  "  way  wise,"  it  will  stand  yoii 
in  hand  to  keep  him  under  perfect  control ;  for  the  least  inat- 
tention on  your  part  may  result  in  trouble.  If  you  don't  want 
the  colt  to  do  wrong,  never  let  him  know  he  can,  and  when  his 
education  is  complete  he  will  not  want  to.  As  3'ou  see  that  h^ 
gradually  learns,  let  up  on  your  control  by  moving  the  keepcr 
up  and  dropping  the  loops  down.  When  h3  is  finally  well- 
behaved  on  the  road,  take  off  the  reining-rings  and  loops,  put  oir 
the  over-draw  extension,  and  drive  with  the  reins  running  from 
the  bit-ring  direct  through  the  terrets.  If  when  driving  i:i  this 
manner,  you  wish  for  control  in  any  emergency,  pull  the  keeper 
down  and  run  both  reins  through  the  split  in  the  over-draw. 
If  you  want  to  make  an  ordinary  snaffle-bit  out  of  a  Wilson^ 
four-ring  bit,  buckle  both  rings  into  the  reins.  Carry  the 
safety-rein  as  long  as  you  deem  it  necessar^^ 

When  introducing  the  colt  to  a  locomotive  for  the  first  time, 
circle  about  and  gradually  approach  nearer  and  nearer,  until 
you  can  drive  him  alongside.  The  safety-rein  should  be  carried 
on  the  near  side  if  you  circle  to  the  right,  and  the  off  side  if 
you  circle  to  the  left.  If,  when  you  approach  nearer,  h3  is 
inclined  to  shy  away,  swing  out  and  hold  him  up  on  the  safcty- 
rein.  Don't  drive  him  too  close.  Twenty  or  thirty  feet  away 
is  near  enough  for  all  practical  purposes.  AVhen  he  will  stand 
head  or  side  to  the  train,  then  teach  him  to  stand  stern  to  it. 
The  greatest  care  should  be  used  in  handling  colts  to  objects  of 
which  they  are  afraid,  and  not  give  them  too  large  a  dose  at  a. 
time,  for  it  rattles  or  confuses  them,  and  the  impression  is  not 
permanent.  A  good  rule  to  observe  all  through  his  education 
is  to  "  go  slow." 

OPEN  BRIDLES. 

Every  colt  should  be  educated  in  an  open  bridle,  and  if  you 
ha\3  perfect  control,  which  the  use  of  a  bridle  like   mine  will 


38  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

give,  it  is  no  more  difficult  to  liandle  him  than  it  would  be  in  a 
blind  bridle.  An  open  bridle  will  give  the  colt  an  opportunity 
to  see  the  vehicle  and  other  objects  and  get  acquainted  with 
them,  and  he  will  not  be  afraid  of  them  in  the  future  ;  whereas, 
if  he  is  educated  in  a  blind  bridle,  the  first  view  he  gets  of  the 
vehicle  will  be  over  the  blinders,  and  that  being  an  indistinct 
view,  and  he  being  unable  to  sec  his  driver  and  be  assured  by 
I'lis  presence  that  all  is  right,  he  will  become  frightened  and 
liable  to  break  away  from  control. 

It  would  be  better  for  the  horses  if  they  all  could  be  driven 
in  open  bridles  :  and  every  thorough  horseman  can  drive  suc- 
cessfully with  open  bridles,  while  poor  horsemen  and  indifferent 
drivers  need  to  drive  with  blind  bridles.  A  good  horseman 
Tvill  have  his  horse  educated  and  under  control  of  the  word  of 
command,  will  keep  his  horse  well  in  hand  everywhere  and 
be  ready  for  every  emergency.  To  such  a  man  it  matters 
not  if  his  horse  has  on  a  blind  or  open  bridle.  An  indifferent 
driver,  who  sits  with  his  elbows  on  his  knees  and  the  reins 
dangling  loosely  about  his  horse,  should  use  a  blind  bridle  ;  for 
with  an  open  bridle  the  horse  will  watch  hhn,  take  advantage 
of  his  negligence  and  soon  become  a  lazy  beast. 

CARE  OF  THE  TEETH. 

Colt  trainers  should  make  it  a  rule  to  examine  the  teeth  and 
mouth  of  every  colt  before  beginning  to  educate  them.  This 
can  bo  easily  done  by  carefully  taking  the  tongue  out  to  one 
side  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  fingers  of  the  other  hand 
feeling  on  the  inside  of  the  lower  grinders  and  the  outside  of 
the  upper  ones,  to  see  if  tliere  are  any  sharp  teeth  cutting 
either  the  tongue  or  cheeks.  If  any  are  found  they  should  be 
filed.  If  no  veterinarian  is  at  hand,  grind  off  the  corners  of  a 
iile,  fill  up  one  side  with  bees- wax  and  dress  the  tooth  yourself. 
Examination  should  also  be  made  to  see  if  the  surface  of  the 
grinders  are  even  and  no  tooth  projecting  beyond  the  others. 
If  any  such  are  found  they  should  bo  either  cut  off  with  proper 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  3D 

instruments  or  extracted.  Sometimes,  also,  ulcers  or  cankers 
can  be  found,  and  these  require  treatment  by  a  veterinarian.  A 
great  deal  of  trouble  in  handling  colts  can  be  avoided  by  these 
precautious,  for  faults  attributed  to  viciousness  are  often  the 
result  of  sore  mouths,  and  the  cause  being  removed  the  fault 
disappears. 

Men  who  are  constantly  buying  or  changing  horses  should 
examine  the  mouth  of  every  new  horse,  and  if  the  teeth  are  in 
bad  order  attend  to  them.  Many  of  the  most  aggravating 
faults  can  be  traced  directly  to  a  bad  condition  of  the  teeth. 
Bolting,  pulling,  lolling,  fighting  check,  and  side-reining  can 
be  attributed  in  the  majority  of  cases  to  the  teeth.  The  fact 
that  no  irregularity,  sharpness  of  the  teeth  or  sores  on  the 
tongue  or  inside  of  the  cheek  can  be  seen  is  no  proof  that  the 
teeth  are  all  right.  There  may  be  ulcerated  teeth,  decayed 
teeth,  or  split  teeth,  with  all  the  consequent  achings  to  which 
people  are  subject  from  the  same  causes.  Authorities  in  veter- 
inary science  cite  numerous  instances  where  an  offensive  dis- 
charge from  the  nostrils  led  to  the  belief  that  it  was  a  case  of 
glanders,  when  an  examination  proved  it  to  issue  from  an  ulcer 
or  abscess  at  the  roots  of  the  teeth,  which  had  discharged  into 
the  nasal  cavity.  It  is  very  apparent  then,  that  a  frequent  and 
thorough  examination  of  colts'  and  horses'  teeth  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  orood  results. 


LEADING  HORSES  BY  THE  REIN. 

It  should  be  a  rule  when  leading  horses  about  by  the  bridle, 
to  change  sides  and  lead  as  often  by  one  rein  as  by  the  other. 
The  constant  leading  of  horses  by  the  near  rein  only,  and  the 
constant  pulling  back  on  that  rein  in  order  to  hold  the  ambi- 
tious horse,  serves  to  educate  but  one  side  of  the  mouth,  and 
the  result  is  that  the  horse  soon  becomes  a  side-reiner  on  the 
opposite  rein.  The  fact  that  the  majority  of  side-reiners  pull 
on  the  off  rein  proves  this.  This  can  be  remedied  by  changing 
about  and  leadiuo:  as  often  on  one  side  as  the  other. 


40  PKOGRESSIVE    CONTROL    OVER 


CONCAVE  ROOF  IN  THE  HORSE'S  MOUTH. 

It  will  be  noticed  in  handling  some  horses  and  colts,  that 
when  you  give  them  the  "  controlling  touch,"  as  explained  in 
Lesson  III,  they  will  not  appear  sensitive  to  it.  An  examination 
of  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  in  such  cases,  will  show  it  to  be  very 
concave  ;  consequently  the  center  of  the  bit  does  not  reach  the 
center  of  the  roof  and  no  control  is  obtained.  In  such  cases 
the  centre  of  the  bit  should  be  wound  with  copper  wire,  or 
raised  by  fitting  on  a  wooden  button,  high  enough  to  roach  the 
centre  of  the  roof  of  the  mouth. 

JERKING   ON   THE   REINS. 

Jerking  on  a  slack  rein  to  reprove  a  horse  soon  gets  him  so 
afraid  of  the  bit  that,  whenever  he  sees  a  hand  approach  his 
head  or  feels  a  tremor  of  the  rein  from  behind,  he  will  throw 
his  head  in  the  air,  expecting  the  accustomed  jerk.  If  it  is 
necessary  to  reprove  on  the  rein,  it  will  be  more  effective  to 
take  hold  of  the  rein  firmW,  pull  it  taut,  then  set  on  it  with  a 
firm  pull ;  and  this  will  not  get  the  horse  afraid  of  his  mouth. 
Never  jerk,  or  "  fish,"  on  the  reins  when  you  wish  a  horse  to 
go  or  increase  his  speed.  Ordinary  road  or  family  horses 
should  be  educated  to  go  slower  as  the  reins  are  gradually 
tightened  ;  but  for  gentlemen's  road  horses,  or  trotters,  the 
opposite  rule  should  be  observed,  to  some  extent,  for  it  is 
essential  that  a  trotter  should  bear  well  on  the  bit  in  order  to 
steady  himself. 

APPROACHING   AN   UNRULY   HORSE. 

In  approaching  a  horse,  especially  if  he  be  inclined  to  be 
ugly,  let  your  manner  be  firm,  and  speak  the  word  "whoa" 
in  a  quiet  but  firm  tone.  Grasp  the  rein  near  the  bit,  say 
"  back,"  "  get  up,"  "  get  over  "  or  "  come  here,"  at  the  same 
time  touching  firmly  on  the  rein  in  the  direction  corresponding 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  41 

to  the  command.  This  will  have  a  decided  effect  on  him  and 
he  will  conclude  you  are  not  to  be  trifled  with.  If  he  is  veiy 
vicious,  fasten  a  large  grain-sack  to  a  hoop,  fasten  the  hoop  to 
a  pole  and  bag  his  head.  Being  blinded  he  will  stand  still. 
Fasten  a  slip-noose  about  his  neck  forward  of  the  hoop.  Cut 
holes  through  the  sack  to  let  his  ears  out  and  a  hole  to  get  the 
bit  into  his  mouth.  Put  on  the  bridle  and  handle  him  for 
awhile  with  the  sack  on  his  head.  When  placing  3^our  hand 
on  any  part  of  the  horse,  do  so  in  a  firm,  decided  manner. 
Never  indulge  in  any  foolishness  about  a  horse.  Never  tease 
him  under  any  circumstances  and  never  allow  any  one  else  to 
do  it.  Never  indulge  in  any  undue  familiarity  with  a  horse. 
It  breeds  contempt.  Discharge  a  quick-tempered,  blowing^ 
blatant  groom  whose  very  presence  is  odious  to  the  horses. 
Let  your  motions  about  the  horse  be  easy,  silent  as  poss.ble, 
and  quick,  without  being  jerky.  These  rules,  intelligently 
followed,  will  cause  your  horses  to  love  and  respect  you. 

MESMERIZING   HORSES. 

Many  ignorant  people  suppose  that  some  men  possess  cer- 
tain powers,  generally  termed  mesmeric,  over  horses  and  other 
animals.  This  is  so  just  so  far  as  these  men  possess  firmness^ 
patience,  skill  and  tact,  coupled  with  a  faculty  to  foresee  the 
animal's  intention  and  a  readiness  to  prevent  him  from  carrying 
it  out ;  and,  combined  with  all  this,  a  method  of  letting  the 
animal  know,  by  rewarding  him  for  obedience,  that  they  are 
friend  as  well  as  master.  No  man  need  possess  any  greater 
magical  powers  than  to  have  these  qualities.  They,  togetlier 
with  a  means  of  control  in  which  there  is  no  torture,  will  give 
him  control  over,  and  enable  him  to  effectually  mesmerize  any 
horse. 

THE    COLT'S   TAIL. 

If  a  colt  carries  a  good  tail  his  value  is  increased  consider- 
ably.    Throwing  the  tail  well  up  over  the  back  will  help  some, 


4Z  PROGllESSIVE    COXTROL    OVER 

as  it  tends  to  loosen  the  muscles  on  the  under  side  of  the  tail, 
thus  letting  it  rise.  If  the  tail  is  light,  the  crupper  should  be 
enlarged,  by  winding  it  with  felt,  flannel  or  leather,  so  as  to 
hold  the  tail  up ;  and  this  should  be  worn  until  the  upper 
muscles  get  strengthened  and  will  hold  the  tail  up.  If  the  tail 
is  heavy,  it  should  be  combed  out,  and  then  it  should  be 
thinned  out  carefully  and  evenly  by  slashing  downward  w^ith  a 
sharp  knife  until  it  is  relieved  of  its  extra  weight.  This  will 
cause  the  tail  to  spring  up,  and  by  the  time  the  hair  is  grown 
out  the  muscles  will  have  become  set  and  will  give  it  a  perma- 
nently good  carriage.  The  horse  that  will  hold  the  rein  down 
when  he  gets  it  under  his  tail,  should  wear  a  crupper  large 
enough  to  hold  his  tail  away  from  his  rump  ;  then  he  cannot 
hold  the  rein  when  he  gets  it  under  his  tail. 

EULE   FOR   HITCHING   AXD   UNHITCHIXG. 

After  placing  the  colt  or  horse  in  the  shafts,  always  /look 
the  tugs  first,  then  the  hold-backs.  When  unhitching,  unhook 
the  hold-backs  first,  then  the  tugs.  If  this  rule  is  followed, 
the  value  of  a  good  many  horses  will  be  saved.  Horses  that 
acquire  the  habit  of  bolting  out  of  the  shafts  when  being  un- 
hitched, do  so  by  having  the  tugs  unhitched  first  and  getting 
-cauoht  bv  the  hold-backs  when  p'oino;  out. 

BITS. 

No  general  rule  can  be  given  for  the  use  of  bits.  In  edu- 
cating a  colt  or  unruly  horse  we  must  use  a  form  of  bit  which 
will  give  perfect  control  until  his  education  is  finished  ;  and  the 
four-ring,  double-joint  Wilson  bit,  used  with  a  bridle  con- 
structed as  in  fig.  2  and  according  to  the  instructions  in  this 
book,  will  answer  all  requirements.  For  general  driving,  a 
medium  sized  snaffle  is  best ;  but  horses  differ  so  greatly  in 
disposition  and  sensitiveness  of  the  mouth,' that  a  close  study 
of  the  animal  is  necessarv  in  order  to  determine  what  bit  to  use. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  4o 


LOW    CEILINGS    IX    STABLES    AND    STALLS. 

The  habits  of  halter-piilliug  and  being  unruly  in  bridling  are 
often  caused  by  horses  striking  the  tops  of  their  heads  against 
low  ceilings  or  timbers  in  the  stables.  Besides  being  the  cause 
of  these  faults,  low  ceilings  admit  of  poor  ventilation. 

TO   BRIDLE    A   HORSE    PROPERLY. 

Take  the  bridle  in  right  hand  with  the  thumb  under  center 
of  crown-piece.  Lay  the  bit  in  left  hand  between  the  first  and 
second  fingers  and  forward  of  the  thumb.  Bring  the  bridle 
before  his  face  and  the  bit  to  his  mouth.  Touch  him  under 
the  upper  lip,  back  of  front  teeth,  with  left  thumb  (every 
horse  will  open  his  mouth  if  touched  there),  and  cause  the  bit 
to  enter  his  mouth  by  raising  the  bridle  with  right  hand.  Then 
gather  the  fore-top  in  left  hand,  tuck  the  off  ear  under  the 
crown-piece  with  right  thumb,  then  the  near  ear  and  pull  fore- 
top  out  with  left  hand.  The  bridle  is  on  properly  and  the 
fore-top  in  proper  shape. 

TO    GET    A   HORSE   UP. 

If  a  colt  or  horse  should  get  down  and  seem  unwilling  to 
rise,  turn  his  nose  up  and  pour  a  cup  of  water  down  one  nos- 
tril. If  he  has  life  enough  in  him  to  enable  him  to  get  up  he 
will  come  to  his  feet  instantly. 

TO   EDUCATE    A   COLT    OR   HORSE   TO    STAND    ON   THE 
STREET. 

Carry  a  lad  about  fourteen  years  old  with  you  in  the  vehicle. 
Also  have  a  supply  of  potatoes  or  apples.  AYhen  you  have 
said  "  whoa"  and  stopped  the  horse  at  the  place  you  wish  to 
call,  give  the  lad  the  reins,  have  him  crouch  behind  the  dash 
or  stand  behind  the  vehicle,  and  instruct  him  to  give  a  quiet 


44  PPtOGKESSIVE    CONTROL    OVER 

pull  Oil  the  reius  when  the  horse  moves,  and  to  mimediately 
slack  up  when  he  stops.  The  horse  will  look  about,  and,  see- 
ing no  one  will  start  again,  when  the  lad  will  repeat  the  pull 
on  the  reins.  This  must  be  repeated  by  the  lad  without  his 
saying  a  word  to  let  the  horse  know  he  is  there.  When  you 
return  to  the  vehicle,  give  the  horse  an  apple  to  eat  and  caress 
him  each  time.  In  two  days  time,  if  you  have  many  calls  to 
make,  your  horse  will  be  afraid  to  stir  after  you  leave,  and 
will  learn  to  wait  for  the  apple  he  will  get  on  your  return. 
This  is  the  simplest  and  most  effectual  method  ever  practiced, 
and  will  not  fail. 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  45 


The  Education  of  Unrul}^  Horses. 


Since  Rarey  entered  the  field  and  amazed  people  by  his,  then, 
wonderful  and  fearless  exhibitions  in  taming  unruly  horses  by 
subduing  and  exhausting  them,  numerous  other  men  have 
travelled  over  his  ground  and  become  more  or  less  renowned, 
according  to  their  ability  to  handle.  Each  of  them  have  taken 
Rarey 's  method  of  subduing  as  a  pattern,  and  none  of  them 
have  improved  on  his  method,  except  by  adding  another  hitch, 
knot  or  tie  to  the  brutal  cord,  and  using  various  forms  of  foot- 
ropes  or  fetters,  which  would  enable  them  to  punish  more 
severely  and  subdue  more  quickly.  All  of  them  subdued  their 
subjects  before  they  attempted  to  handle  them.  Each  of  them 
depended  on  exhausting  the  horse,  breaking  his  will  and  inspir- 
ing him  with  fear,  and  their  success  depended  entirely  on  their 
ability  to  "cook"  the  horse,  as  is  frequently  said  of  their 
methods.  But  as  I  have  said  before,  as  long  as  that  was  the 
best  method  then  known,  it  was  far  ahead  of  no  method,  and 
men  felt  justified  in  adopting  it  although  it  went  against  the 
better  feelings  of  many  to  do  so.  Not  one  of  them  ever  con- 
trolled the  horse  in  the  true  sense  of  the  word,  but  punished 
or  frightened  him  into  obedience. 

Subduing,  means  to  bring  under  power,  to  overcome  by 
force,  to  crush  or  oppress,  to  coerce  into  submission.  We  see, 
by  the  definition  of  the  word,  just  what  their  methods  accom- 
plished.    To  break  his  will  and  overcome  the  physical  power  of 


46  PROGKESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

the  horse  was  then  their  object.  The  will  power  and  physical 
endurance  of  the  horse,  as  in  man,  are  his  most  valuable  qualities, 
and  when  these  are  broken  down  and  eliminated  there  is  nothing 
left.  The  retention  of  these  noble  qualities  in  the  horse  is 
what  has  enabled  him  to  gain  the  position  he  to-day  has  in 
popular  favor,  and  it  should  be  the  trainer's  study  to  control 
and  educate  the  animal  without  subduing. 

Controlling,  means  to  restrain,  to  govern,  to  direct,  to 
manage.  That  is,  it  implies  the  use  of  superior  skill,  tact  and 
knowledge.  It  means  to  use  such  restraint  as  will  keep  the 
horse  from  doing  wrong,  at  the  same  time  to  direct  him  as  to 
what  is  right  by  a  reasonable  method  of  explanation.  In  the 
same  way  that  a  thoughtful  parent  controls  his  child  by  appeal- 
ing to  his  pride  and  manliness,  so  should  the  trainer  control 
his  horse  by  appealing  to  his  intelligence  and  letting  him 
understand  for  himself  that  obedience  brings  reward,  while 
disobedience  brings  none.  The  horse  should  not  be  taught  to 
fear  his  trainer,  neither  should  he  be  taught  to  obey  through 
fear  of  punishment.  There  is  no  reforming  power  in  punish- 
ment or  fear.  You  may  be  able  to  scare  a  horse  so  he  won't 
do  a  wrong  thing,  but  you  can't  scare  him  so  he  won't  want  to. 
The  aim,  then,  should  be  to  restrain  him  from  doing  wrong,  and 
explain  to  him  what  is  right  by  removing  whatever  restraint 
you  may  use  the  moment  he  obeys.  He  can  understand  this, 
treatment  and  will  soon  learn  what  is  wrong  by  having  the 
control  applied  when  he  is  in  the  act  of  doing  wrong  ;  and  he 
will  learn  what  is  right  by  having  the  control  removed  when  he 
obeys.  It  is  nonsense  to  think  the  horse  knows  intuitively 
right  from  wrong.  The  only  way  in  which  3'ou  can  explain  to 
him  what  is  right,  is  to  allow  him  to  do  it  when  he  attempts  to. 
And  the  only  way  you  can  explain  to  him  what  is  wrong,  is  to 
apply  restraint  when  he  attempts  to  do  wrong  and  repeat  this 
often  enough  to  educate  him. 

Education,  as  applied  to  the  horse,  consists  in  repeating  the 
act  as  often  as  is  necessary  to  make  a  permanent  impression 
on  him.     He  should  be  made  to  go  through  each  lesson  until 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  47 

he  does  it  pleasuntly  and  without  the  slightest  sign  of  opposi- 
tion. Then  l:e  ma^^  be  said  to  be  educated.  Men  who  profess 
to  l)e  horsemen  have  often  asked  this  question  of  me  :  '"'  If  you 
train  a  kicker  or  balker  to-day  will  he  kick  to-morrow?"  and 
in  asking  the  question  the}^  at  once  show  how  ignorant  they  are 
of  the  principles  that  apply  to  the  education  of  the  horse. 
Did  they  learn  the  multiplication  table  by  repeating  it  once  ? 
Did  they  become  expert  choppers  by  falling  one  tree  ?  I  have 
always  answered  such  questions  candidly  by  telling  them  that, 
in  all  probability,  the  horse  would  kick  or  balk  to-morrow. 
But  I  do  say,  that  when  the  horse  has  had  his  lesson  repeated 
so  often  that  he  has  learned  it  as  a  scholar  has  learned  his 
tables,  he  will  do  right  in  preference  to  wrong. 

Horses  do  many  things  we  call  unruly  ;  and  they  really 
think  they  are  doing  right,  because  they  have  not  been 
restrained  from  so  doing  and  made  to  do  the  right  thing.  I 
can  better  Illustrate  my  meaning  by  citmg  a  case  at  Spring- 
vale,  Me.,  which  I  had  to  handle.  A  young  mare  was  brought 
into  the  class  which  would  rear  whenever  they  attempted  to 
back  her.  She  had  never  backed  a  step.  Now,  when  the 
trainer  first  attempted  to  back  her  she  happened  to  rear,  and 
because  he  couldn't  restrain  her  from  reaiing,  she  really 
learned  that  it  was  just  what  she  should  do  when  she  heard 
the  word  '-back"  spoken  and  felt  a  pull  on  the  reins.  That 
mare  didn't  know  she  was  doing  wrong  and  she  didn't  know 
what  the  word  "back"  meant,  because  she  had  never  been 
put  through  the  motion  of  backing.  I  simply  held  down  on 
the  near  rein  when  she  tried  to  rear  and  restrained  her  from 
it ;  then  I  taught  her  to  back  as  I  would  a  colt,  and  it  took 
less  than  fifteen  minutes  to  do  it.  The  following  day  the 
owner  could  back  her  anywhere.  She  had  learned  for  the  first 
time,  the  right  meaning  of  the  word  "  back." 

In  treating  on  the  education  of  unruly  horses  we  will  take 
the  road  faults  first.  They  are  called  by  many  names,  such 
as  bolting,  pulling,  shying,  running  away,  balking,  kicking, 
side-reining,  rearing,  running  back,  and  afraid  of  locomotives,. 


48  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

umbrellas  or  other  objects  ;  but,  aside  from  the  habits  of  rear- 
ing and  kicking,  all  the  rest  of  these  faults  simply  amount  to  an 
-excess  of  motion  or  power,  in  either  one  of  four  directions. 
To  make  this  statement  clear,  let  us  stand  a  horse  with  his  head 
towards  the  north.  Now  if  he  be  a  runaway  or  puller,  he  cer- 
tainly has  too  much  power  towards  the  north  or  to  the  front. 
If  he  bolts  to  the  right,  shys  at  objects  on  the  near  side,  or  is 
a  side-reiner  on  the  near  rein,  he  has  too  much  motion  or 
power  to  the  right  or  to  the  east.  If  he  bolts  to  the  left,  shys 
at  objects  on  the  off  side^,  or  is  a  side-reiner  on  the  off  rein,  he 
has  too  much  motion  to  the  west.  If  he  has  the  habit  of  run- 
ning back,  he  has  too  much  motion  to  the  south. 

In  order  to  control  these  faults,  we  must  get  this  extra  motion 
or  powder,  in  whatever  direction  it  may  be,  under  control ;  and 
educate  it  by  diverting  it  in  the  proper  direction.  The  proper 
way  to  do  this  is  to  take  the  horse  on  the  stable  floor,  and,  by 
following  the  directions  given  in  these  pages,  work  against  this 
extra  motion  until  you  have  brought  it  back  under  control.  It 
is  a  safe  proposition,  that,  if  a  horse  is  under  perfect  control 
of  the  bit  and  reins,  he  won't  do  wrong.  The  object  is  to  make 
the  horse  think  that  we  can  manage  him.  When  he  thinks  we 
can,  that's  all  there  is  to  it.  The  only  reason  that  a  man  can 
govern  an  elephant  is  because  the  elephant  thinks  he  can.  If 
-a  horse  thinks  a  bit  can  hold  him,  he  won't  pull  or  run  away. 
If  he  thinks  he  must  go  where  he  is  reined,  he  will  not  bolt  or 
•shy.  If  he  thinks  he  must  go  to  the  front  whenever  he  is  told 
to  do  so,  he  wdll  not  balk,  or  refuse  to  go  to  objects  which  appear 
frightful  to  him.  To  sum  up,  man's  control  over  the  horse 
should  be  superior  to  the  horse's  fear  and  every  idea  or  notion 
of  his  own  that  he  ma}^  have.  Man  was  created  lord  over 
beasts.  The  Creator  designed  the  horse  for  man's  service.  In 
His  wisdom  he  certainly  provided  a  means  of  control.  We 
have  a  hint  as  to  the  means  in  the  words  :  ' '  there  is  the  bridle 
for  the  horse."  Horsemen  who  practice  this  system,  will  con- 
clude that  the  horse  can  be  controlled  and  educated  with  the 
use  of  the  bridle  alone. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  49 


A  RULE  TO  BE  OBSEHVED  WITH  EVERY  HORSE. 

A  general  rule  to  be  observed  in  educating  any  horse,  no 
matter  what  his  fault  may  be,  is  to  first  get  3'our  control  at  the 
head.  If  you  cannot  control  and  handle  the  head,  don't  pride 
yourself  that  you  can  manage  his  heels.  Get  your  control  at 
the  head  by  means  of  the  "controlling  touch,"  as  in  Lesson 
III.  Bridle-handle  the  horse  in  every  respect  as  you  would  the 
colt.  See  to  it  that  his  head  is  perfectly  educated,  and  under 
control  in  every  direction.  Then  gradually  work  away  from  the 
head,  controlling  and  educating  as  you  go,  until  you  reach  the 
point  where  the  fault  exists.  Then  control  and  educate  there, 
until  you  satisfy  yourself  that  you  have  eradicated  the  fault. 
In  this  manner,  you  make  your  control  progressive.  By  putting 
the  horse's  nose  against  the  wall,  into  the  corner,  and  making 
him  hold  it  there  ;  then  by  handling  him  by  the  head  and  ears  ; 
then  by  handling  him  head  and  foot  together,  and  putting  him 
through  several  little  motions,  to  all  of  which  he  will  object, 
you  add  to  3^our  control  a  little  at  a  time,  until  he  finally 
acknowledges  3^ou  as  master  in  all  things.  Then,  too,  while 
gaining  control  you  are  educating  the  horse  ;  for  each  little  act 
he  has  performed  is  something  he  will  be  required  to  do  in  the 
future.  By  getting  control  in  this  quiet  manner,  you  keep  the 
horse's  mind  calm,  and  in  a  condition  to  receive  impressions  ; 
and  the  result  is  that  he  respects  3^ou  as  his  superior,  3^ou  have 
gained  his  confidence  and  he  loves  you  as  his  friend. 

THE  RUNAWAY  HORSE. 

This  is  a  horse  with  too  much  motion  to  the  front.  Adjust 
the  bridle  for  full  control,  and  take  position  as  in  fig.  3.  Lead 
him  all  about  the  stable  and  yard,  occasionally  giving  him  the 
"controlling  touch,"  as  described  in  Lesson  III.  ^  Stop  him 
very  often  at  the  word  "whoa,"  and  compel  him  to  stand  still 
by  touching  straight  down  on  both  reins.     If  he  is  afraid  of 


50  PROGRESSIVE  COXTROL  OVER 

paper,  robes,  umbrellas,  etc.,  hold  him  in  control  with  both 
reins  in  left  hand,  as  in  fig.  5,  and  play  these  articles  all  about 
his  head  and  body  until  he  shows  no  fear  of  them,  giving  him 
the  "  controlling  touch"  to  make  him  stand  still.  Then  work 
away  from  him  on  the  leaders,  letting  him  go  about  in  a  circle, 
stopping  him  occasionally  at  the  word  "  whoa,"  by  setting  back 
on  both  leaders.  Now  put  on  saddle,  and  snap  "  reining- 
rings  "  on  buckles  on  the  inner  girth.  Buckle  the  loops  on  over- 
draws, so  the  loops  will  be  about  seven  inches  back  of  crown- 
piece.  Put  leaders  through  the  loops,  tie  a  knot  in  the  leaders, 
on  the  loops,  run  the  leaders  through  the  "reining  rings," 
check  with  the  leather  thong,  buckle  on  the  hand  pieces,  and 
snap  the  safety-rein  on  bit-ring,  as  in  fig.  9.  Then,  taking 
position  as  in  fig.  10,  proceed  as  in  Lesson  X.,  in  getting  a  colt 
under  control  of  the  reins.  Repeat  the  word  "  whoa,"  at  the 
same  time  setting  back  heavily  on  the  reins,  until  he  will  stop 
and  stand  still  at  the  word,  without  a  touch  of  the  reins.  The 
horse  is  then  under  control  of  the  bit,  or  he  wouldn't  stop  at 
the  word  ;  for  it  was  the  bit  that  made  him  stop  in  the  first 
place  :  and  a  horse  under  control  of  the  bit,  won't  run  away. 
Now  fasten  the  keeper  on  the  nose  about  an  inch  above  full 
control,  take  the  knot  out  of  the  leaders,  run  the  leaders  through 
the  loops,  then  through  the  terrets,  buckle  on  the  hand-pieces, 
as  in  fig.  12,  hitch  into  the  vehicle  and  drive  out.  When  on  the 
road,  stop  him  occasionally  by  saying  "whoa,"  and  setting 
back  on  the  reins.  Also  rein  him  from  right  to  left ;  and,  if 
he  is  afraid  of  objects,  drive  him  up  to  them,  using  the  safety- 
rein  to  make  him  approach  them  by  throwing  it  to  the  front, 
as  described  in  Lesson  XIV.  If  he  is  afraid  of  the  rattle  of 
the  shafts  or  wagon,  handle  him  as  in  Lesson  XIII.  If  he 
should  attempt  to  run,  reach  out  and  cut  him  around  with  the 
safety-rein. 

The  first  lesson  will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Before  you 
drive  next  time,  give  him  another  lesson  of  about  fifteen  minutes 
in  the  same  manner  ;  removing  control,  as  you  think  safe,  by  put- 
ting the  keeper  further  up  on  the  nose.     Ten  minutes  is  enough 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  51 

time  for  third  lesson,  before  driving,  decreasing  the  time  each 
lesson  until  he  is  educated. 

THE   PULLER. 

The  runaway  might  be  also  called  a  strong  puller,  since  his 
extra  motion  is  in  the  same  direction,  viz.,  to  the  front.  The 
puller  is  handled  in  much  the  same  manner,  before  being  driven, 
as  the  runaway.  He  needs  to  be  taken  on  the  floor,  controlled, 
and  educated  on  the  bit  b}^  setting  back  on  the  reins  until  he 
thinks  the  bit  can  hold  him.  Before  driving  out  with  the 
puller,  put  the  keeper  up  about  three  inches  from  full  control 
and  drive  with  the  reins  running  through  the  loops  and  ferrets 
as  in  fig.  12.  If  he  drives  on  too  slack  a  rein  and  doesn't  take 
hold  sufficient  to  make  it  pleasant,  move  the  keeper  up  a 
little  at  a  time  until  you  get  what  pull  you  want.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  pull  back  suddenly  if  he  starts  to  pull,  but 
tighten  the  reins  gradually.  The  first  thing  to  do  for  a  puller 
is  to  examine  his  teeth  carefully  and  look  all  about  his  mouth 
for  sores.  If  his  teeth  are  cutting  his  tongue  or  cheeks,  have 
them  filed.  If  his  mouth  is  sore,  have  it  treated  by  a  veterin- 
arian. Removing  the  cause  will  remove  the  evil.  If  he  pulls 
on  account  of  a  dull  mouth  he  needs  to  have  his  mouth  edu- 
cated, and  this  is  done  by  following  the  above  du'ections.  We 
can  put  different  bits  into  runaways'  or  pullers'  mouths,  that 
will  hold  them  ;  that  is  a  preventive  only.  But  this  method  of 
handling  will  educate  them  in  a  few  lessons,  so  they  will  drive 
on  any  bit. 

THE   BOLTER. 

Examine  his  teeth  and  mouth  the  first  thing.  Also  look  for 
the  presence  of  wolf  teeth.  These  are  often  a  source  of  an- 
noyance to  colts  and  young  horses,  and  their  presence  may  be 
detected  by  feeling  with  the  thumb  on  the  upper  jaw  forward 
of  and  close  to  the  molars.  The  fact  that  you  can't  feel  them 
is  not  always  proof  that  they  are  not  there,  for  they  may  not 
be  through  the  gum.     If  they  are  troubling  the  horse,  and  can 


52  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

Dot  be  seen  or  felt,  a  redness  of  the  gums  will  disclose  the 
fact.  They  should  be  removed  at  all  events.  This  is  some- 
times done  by  breaking  them  off  with  a  large  nail  and  hammer, 
but  it  is  better  to  extract  them  with  forceps. 

If  the  horse  bolts  because  he  is  not  under  control  of  the  bit, 
he  should  be  handled  and  broke  up  on  the  reins,  same  as  the 
runaway,  until  he  is  educated.  Some  horses  bolt  always  to 
the  right,  some  bolt  to  the  left,  and  some  bolt  either  way,  as 
they  take  the  notion.  One  that  bolts  to  the  right  has  too 
much  power  in  that  direction  ;  or,  in  other  words,  he  is  not 
imder  control  of  the  near  rein.  This  one  should  be  handled  as 
the  runaway  is  handled,  with  this  exception :  that  especial 
attention  should  be  paid  to  the  near  rein,  and,  after  breaking 
him  up  a  short  time  from  right  to  left,  as  in  lesson  10,  he 
should  be  swung  strongly  about  on  the  near  rein ;  and  this 
should  be  repeated  until  he  gives  evidence  that  he  will  answer 
to  the  near  rein  as  readily  as  he  will  to  the  off  one.  You  can 
determine  when  he  is  even  on  the  reins  by  feeling  of  him  care- 
fully to  see  if  he  turns  as  quickly  one  way  as  another.  The 
safety-rein  should  be  handled  on  the  dull  side,  and  if  he  does 
not  answer  readily  to  the  rein  on  that  side,  a  strong  pull  on  the 
safety-rein  will  bring  him  about.  When  he  appears  to  be 
under  control  of  the  bit,  from  right  to  left,  he  should  be  driven 
into  the  corners  of  the  stable,  out  into  the  yard  and  up  to  a 
number  of  objects  to  which  he  will  object  to  go.  When  he 
refuses  to  go  to  any  spot,  step  out  to  one  side,  as  in  fig.  10, 
and  oblige  him  to  go  by  throwing  the  safety-rein  as  described 
in  Lesson  10,  on  handling  the  colt.  If  he  bolts  through  fear  of 
an  umbrella,  robe,  etc.,  handle  him  up  to  the  object  by  tossing 
the  safety-rein  to  the  front.  When  he  appears  to  be  under 
perfect  control  and  ready  to  go  anywhere  you  ask  him,  adjust 
reins  same  as  in  fig.  12,  hitch  him  to  a  vehicle  and  drive  out. 
Carry  the  safety-rein  on  the  near  side ;  and,  if  he  should 
attempt  to  bolt,  lean  out  of  the  vehicle  and  cut  him  to  the  left 
with  a  strong  pull  on  the  safety-rein.  Handle  him  a  few  min- 
utes each  time  before  driving  him,  until  he  is  educated. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  53 

If  the  horse  bolts  to  the  left  he  is  not  under  control  of  the 
off  rein ;  and  you  proceed  just  the  same  as  with  the  one  that 
bolts  to  the  right,  only  you  reverse  by  handling  with  the 
safety-rein  on  the  right  side  until  you  get  him  under  control  of 
the  off  rein. 

If  he  will  bolt  in  either  dh-ection,  with  reins  adjusted  as  in 
fig.  9,  he  must  be  handled  sharply  from  right  to  left,  same  as 
the  runaway,  using  the  safety-rein  on  each  side  alternately, 
until  he  is  under  control  of  both  reins  and  has  concluded  that 
he  must  turn  either  way  he  is  reined.  Then  he  should  be 
handled  up  to  the  corners  of  the  stable  and  up  to  umbrellas 
etc.  in  the  3'ard,  until  he  thinks  he  must  go  wherever  you  tell 
him,  when  the  reins  may  be  adjusted  as  in  fig.  12,  in  driving  a 
runaway,  and  the  horse  driven  on  the  road. 

Of  course  it  is  necessary  for  the  trainer  to  keep  a  close 
watch  of  his  horse  and,  if  possible,  learn  by  his  actions  what 
he  is  about  to  do  and  "  get  there  "  just  before  the  horse  does. 
The  horse  has  generally  been  master  on  the  road,  and  when 
he  is  started  out,  no  matter  how  docile  he  may  have  acted 
while  training  him  in  the  stable,  he  will  have  his  sense  of  free- 
dom and  superiority  return  and  may  attempt  to  regain  the 
mastery.  To  defeat  this  and  hold  him  under  control,  as  soon 
as  vou  leave  the  stable  vou  should  beo;in  to  rein  him  from  ri2;ht 
to  left,  and  keep  his  attention  on  the  bit  by  trigging  first  on 
one  rein,  then  on  the  other,  and  occasionally  stopping  him  by 
saying  "whoa"  and  setting  back  on  the  reins.  When  he 
pricks  his  ears  at  an  object  on  the  road,  change  the  bit  in  his. 
mouth  sufficiently  quick  and  sharp  to  hold  his  attention  and 
remind  him  of  the  control.  The  lessons  should  be  repeated 
with  him  each  time  before  driving  until  he  is  under  perfect 
control  and  obedience. 

THE  SHYER. 

This  horse  should  be  handled  exactly  like  the  bolter  that 
bolts  either  way,  and  driven  with  reins  adjusted  as  in  fig.  12. 
If  he  shorld  be   shy  of  any  particular  objects  he    should,  in 


54  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

addition,  be  driven  to  those  objects  under  control,  and  com- 
pelled to  stand  still.  By  the  use  of  this  system  on  runaways, 
bolters  and  shyers,  they  can  be  brought  under  such  control  of 
the  bit  and  reins  that  they  will  not  run,  bolt  or  shy,  no  matter 
how  much  they  may  be  frightened,  for  the  control  becomes 
superior  to  their  fear. 

Of  course  it  is  understood  that  horses  of  this  character,  and 
others  with  unruly  habits,  cannot  be  handled  by  this  system 
or  any  other,  so  that  they  can  be  immediately  driven  by  an 
indifferent  or  incompetent  driver.  It  is  necessary  to  hold  such 
horses  well  in  hand,  be  prepared  for  any  emergency  and  to 
restrain  them  with  coolness,  firmness  and  judgment,  when  the}^ 
attempt  wrong,  until  they  become  thoroughly  educated ;  and 
an  educated  horse  will  never  go  back  on  himself.  Horses,  like 
men,  are  peculiarly  adapted,  according  to  their  organization 
and  temperament,  to  different  kinds  of  labor.  Know  well 
your  horse  and  put  him  in  the  place  he  seems  best  calculated 
to  fill.  The  mistake  is  too  often  made  of  trying  to  force  the 
spirited,  nervous,  ambitious  horse  into  a  life  of  drudgery  to 
which' he  is  illy  suited. 

THE  SIDE-REINER. 

This  is  a  name  given  to  the  habit  a  horse  has  of  pulling 
harder  on  one  rein  than  on  the  other.  The  habit,  in  some 
cases  is  caused  by  sharp  teeth  cutting  the  cheek,  and  the  horse 
pulls  on  one  rein  to  keep  the  cheek  away  from  the  sharp  tooth. 
In  other  cases  it  is  caused  by  a  dullness  or  lack  of  education 
of  one  side  of  the  mouth  ;  and  it  may  be  the  result  of  a  par- 
alysis of  the  nerves  at  the  corner  of  the  mouth,  caused  by  the 
use  of  the  war-bridle  or  by  brutally  jerking  the  horse  on  the 
bit. 

If  it  is  caused  by  bad  teeth,  remove  the  cause  by  having  the 
teeth  filed.  If  it  is  caused  by  a  dullness  of  the  mouth,  educate 
the  dull  side  by  putting  the  horse  through  a  course  of  reining 
lessons  on  the  dull  side,  as  in  handling  the  bolter,  until  he  is 


COLTS    AXD   HORSES.  55 

as  easily  guided  by  that  rein  as  by  the  other,  using  the  safety- 
rein  to  assist  you  in  educating  him,  and  driving  with  reins 
adjusted  as  in  fig.  12. 

If  the  horse  is  dull  on  the  near  rein  it  can  be  attributed  in 
most  cases  to  his  teeth ;  in  the  balance  of  the  cases  to  lack  of 
care  and  judgment  in  seeing  that  he  was  evenly  handled  on  the 
reins  when  a  colt.  If  he  is  a  side-reiner  on  the  off  rein,  it  is 
generally  caused  by  the  habit  of  constantly  leading  him  out  to 
the  vehicle,  to  water,  and  about  the  stable  and  yard  by  the 
near  rein.  The  ambitious  horse  is  being  constantly  jerked 
back  on  the  near  rein,  and  the  result  is  that  but  one  side  of  his 
mouth  becomes  educated.  To  avoid  this  result  then,  horses 
should  be  led  out  on  each  side,  alternately,  or  by  grasping 
both  reins  in  the  hand  under  the  chin.  In  the  balance  of  cases 
of  side-reining  on  the  off  rein,  the  cause  may  either  be  bad 
teeth  or  injudicious  handling.  In  order  to  determine  how  to 
educate  a  horse  out  of  a  habit,  under  this  system,  it  is  only 
necessary  to  ascertain  in  which  direction  the  horse  has  an 
excess  of  motion,  then  intelligently  proceed  to  bring  the  extra 
motion  back  under  control  and  educate  it  by  working  directly 
against  that  motion. 

THE  BALKER. 

Inasmuch  as  the  balker  will  in  most  cases  run  back  when  he 
is  urged  to  start,  and  as  the  same  principle  that  will  stop  a  horse 
from  running  back  will  start  the  balker,  he  may  be  said  to  be  a 
horse  that  has  too  much  motion  to  the  rear ;  or  rather,  an 
absence  of  motion  to  the  front. 

Put  on  the  bridle  for  full  control.  Handle  at  the  head  as  in 
Lesson  III,  in  order  to  obtain  control,  get  up  an  acquaintance 
and  show  him  you  are  master.  Put  on  the  saddle  and  adjust 
reins  and  safety-rein  as  in  fig.  9.  Then  proceed  as  in  Lesson 
X,  reining  him  about  thoroughly  on  the  floor,  then  stepping  to 
the  left  side,  with  the  safety-rein  in  the  left  hand,  the  whip  and 
off  rein  about  the  rump  in  the  right  hand  as  in  fig  10,  work  him 
about  the  floor.    Stop  him  frequently,  and  start  him  by  throwing 


56  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

the  safety-reiu  sharply  forward.  Repeat  this  until  he  will 
start  forward  on  a  slight  toss  of  the  safet3'-rein.  Then,  if 
possible,  find  some  place  to  which  he  will  refuse  to  go,  and  com- 
pel him  to  go  by  throwing  the  safety-rein,  at  the  same  time 
striking  him  smartly  with  the  whip.  If  you  can't  get  him  to 
refuse  to  go  anywhere,  pile  up  some  brush  and  oblige  him  to 
go  through  it  repeatedly.  Then  hitch  into  a  vehicle.  Carry 
the  safety-rein  in  the  left  hand,  and  when  he  attempts  to  balk, 
throw  it  strongly  forward.  If  he  should  succeed  in  stoppings 
cut  him  about  to  the  left  on  the  safety-rein,  and  when  he  comes 
around  throw  the  rein  to  the  front,  at  the  same  time  striking 
him  smartly  with  the  whip.  He  will  prefer  to  go  ahead  rather 
than  be  cut  around,  and  a  few  lessons  will  educate  him.  If  a 
man  has  an  unruly  horse  and  he  wants  to  educate  him  out  of 
his  vice,  he  should  prepare  himself  so  the  horse  can  do  no 
damage  if  he  should  have  a  contest  with  him  on  the  road.  It 
is  better  to  harness  an  unruly  horse  to  a  strong  sulky,  or  two- 
wheeled  gig,  for  the  purpose  of  educating  him.  The  trainer 
will  not  only  have  better  control  and  be  in  a  better  position  to 
handle  by  being  close  to  his  horse,  but  the  horse  can  do  no 
damage.  If  he  is  hitched  to  a  wagon,  it  might  happen  that 
you  would  be  unable  to  control  him  for  fear  of  the  result,  and 
that  would  be  a  victory  for  the  horse.  Every  precaution 
should  be  taken  to  ensure  success  ;  and  a  man  is  justified  in 
adopting  any  measures  he  may  see  fit,  that  will  give  him  the 
advantage,  so  long  as  they  are  not  cruel  to  the  horse. 

The  horse  that  has  been  loaded  too  heavily,  and,  becoming 
discouraged,  has  become  a  balker,  needs  to  have  his  confidence 
in  his  powers  restored  by  loading  light  at  first,  then  gradually 
giving  him  heavier  loads  until  he  has  what  he  ought  to  pull. 
The  balker  that  will  stand  and  allow  himself  to  be  tortured  by 
fire  without  stirring  from  his  tracks,  is  pronounced  by  veterin- 
arians to  be  an  insane  horse.  This  is  a  reasonable  conclusion, 
and  the  same  thing  might  be  said  of  other  cases  where  destruc- 
tive habits  exist  without  any  apparent  cause.  To  those  w^ho 
have  watched   the  strange  freaks  of  those  who  are  confined  in 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  57 

a  lunatic  asylum,  it  would  not  be  difficult  for  them  to  believe 
that  many  of  the  vicious  habits  of  horses  are  the  result  of  a 
diseased  brain. 

THE  POOR  REINER. 

If  a  horse  reins  poorly,  see  if  a  bad  condition  of  his  teeth  is 
the  cause  of  it.  If  so,  get  his  teeth  fixed.  If  not,  it  is. 
because  his  mouth  is  not  educated.  Adjust  the  bridle  and 
reins  as  in  fig.  9,  and  give  him  a  few  reining  lessons  as  in 
Lesson  X,  and  drive  a  few  times  with  reins  adjusted  as  in  fig-. 
12.  Some  horses  are  limber-necked  and  will  swinsj  their 
heads  around  without  moving  the  body.  Others  are  stiff- 
necked  and  will  move  neither  head  nor  body.  In  both  cases 
the  fault  can  be  overcome  by  a  thorough  course  of  reining 
lessons. 

THE  HORSE  AFRAID  OF  THE  LOCOMOTIVE,  UMBRELLA,  OR 
OTHER  OBJECT. 

Some  horsemen  profess  to  believe  it  a  difficult  feat  to  drive 
a  timid  horse  to  a  locomotive,  and  doubt  another's  ability 
because  they  never  were  able  to  do  it  themselves. 

This  horse  wants  the  bridle  on  for  full  control,  as  in  fig.  3, 
and  needs  to  be  handled  just  the  same  as  described  for  a  bolter 
that  bolts  either  way,  only  he  needs  to  be  handled  with  more 
force  and  decision.  He  should  be  reined  about  thoroughly, 
from  right  to  left,  on  the  floor,  as  in  Lesson  X.,  and  handled  to 
the  front  on  the  toss  of  the  safety-rein,  as  in  fig  10,  at  the 
same  time  the  whip  should  be  plied  until  he  can  be  driven  to 
the  corner  of  the  stable  and  to  every  part  of  the  3^ard  under 
the  tap  of  the  whip,  without  the  use  of  the  safety-rein.  When 
h3  will  do  this  he  may  be  hitched  to  a  vehicle  (a  two-wheeled 
gig  or  sulky  should  be  used,  if  possible),  and  driven  out  on 
the  road  about  twenty  minutes  or  more  before  the  train  comes. 
(Before  driving,  remove  the  keeper  one  inch  above  full  control 
and  run  the  reins  through  the  loops  and  terrets  as  in  fig.  12.) 
Tills  time  should   be  spent  in  reining   him  about,  turning   him 


58  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

around  and  driving  him  to  objects  to  whicti  he  will  object  to 
go.  When  the  train  comes,  he  should  be  driven  in  towards  it, 
and  if  possible,  alongside  of  and  with  the  locomotive.  The 
safety-rein  should  be  carried  on  the  side  that  is  going  to  come 
next  to  the  train,  and  if  he  tries  to  dodge  away  he  may  be 
swung  to  the  train  by  leaning  out  of  the  vehicle  and  holding  him 
up  on  the  safety-rein.  If  he  attempts  to  stop,  throw  the  safety- 
Tein  sharply  to  the  front.  If  he  tries  to  rear  or  run  back,  cut 
him  off  and  around  with  the  safety-rein,  then  head  him  towards 
the  train  again  and  say  "whoa."  If  when  handling  him  on 
the  floor  and  road  before  the  train  comes,  you  have  taken  pains 
to  educate  him  to  what  the  word  "  whoa"  means,  he  will  stand 
still.  The  drives  should  be  repeated  until  he  will  go  within  a 
reasonable  distance  and  stand  quietly.  When  going  to  the 
train,  have  him  under  a  sharp  trot  and  keep  his  attention  on 
the  bit  by  trigging  on  the  reins. 

Although  many  horses  cannot  be  driven  to  the  locomotive, 
very  few  of  them  are  really  afraid  of  it.  The  majority  of 
them  have  always  refused  to  go,  and  understand  that  the 
driver  cannot  compel  them  to.  The  balance  may  be  said  to  be 
afraid.  In  either  case,  by  the  use  of  this  system,  the  control 
becomes  superior,  not  only  to  their  fear,  but  to  aay  notions  of 
their  own  that  they  may  possess.  It  is  simply  a  system  which 
enables  the  trainer  to  make  the  horse  think  that  he  must  go 
wherever  he  is  reined  ;  and  when  the  horse  thinks  he  must 
obey,  that  settles  it.  Some  horses  can  be  led  up  to  a  locomo- 
tive and  will  stand  quietly  with  some  one  hold  of  the  rein, 
but  it  would  be  impossible  to  drive  them  up.  Some  people  are 
pleased  to  attribute  this  fact  to  the  "  confidence,"  with  which 
the  horse  is  inspired  in  the  one  who  leads  him.  If  this  were 
the  case,  the  horse  would  follow  his  leader  without  his  having 
hold  of  the  rein,  if  another  person  were  in  the  vehicle  driving. 
Yet  a  horse  will  not  do  this.  This  proves  conclusively  that  it 
is  not  a  case  of  "  confidence  "  at  all,  but  a  case  of  control  and 
education.  This  horse  had  been  disciplined  in  leading  to  such 
.an  extent,  that  he  was  under  perfect  control  as  far  as  leading 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  59 

was  concerned,  and  thought  that  he  must  go  wherever  he  was 
led  ;  but  he  was  not  under  control  of  the  reins,  and  knew  he 
need  not  so  where  he  was  driven  unless  he  was  willinsj. 


THE  EESTLESS  HORSE. 

"VYith  the  bridle  on  for  full  control,  take  position  as  in  fig.  3. 
Move  the  horse  all  about  the  stable,  repeating  the  word 
"whoa"  and  setting  down  on  both  reins.  Then  put  on  saddle 
and  adjust  reins  as  in  fig.  9.  Then,  taking  position  as  in  fig. 
10,  start  him  and  rein  him  about  from  right  to  left,  and  drive 
about  the  stable  and  yard  repeating  the  word  "whoa"  and 
setting  back  on  the  reins  until  he  will  stop  at  the  v;ord  on  a 
slack  rein.  Let  him  stop  several  times  this  way,  then  "  whoa" 
and  set  him  solid  for  half  a  dozen  times.  Put  him  in  the 
shafts,  hitch  tugs  and  hold-backs,  toss  reins  over  the  dash- 
board, step  into  the  vehicle,  and  if  he  attempts  to  move  say 
"  whoa."  If  he  has  learned  his  lesson  he  will  stand.  If  not, 
take  him  out  and  spend  a  few  minutes  more  to  finish  what  you 
have  partly  done.     After  a  few  lessons  he  will  stand  i:)erfectly. 

This  is  a  hard  fault  to  handle  by  all  other  methods  ;  but  by 
this  it  is  a  simple  matter  of  teaching  him  the  true  meaning  of 
the  word  "  whoa." 

THE  REARER. 

This  horse  should  be  handled  with  the  bridle  on  for  full  con- 
trol, as  in  fig.  3.  Handle  at  the  head  with  the  "controlling- 
touch,"  as  explained  in  Lesson  III,  sufficient  to  get  him  to 
recognize  you  as  master,  then  put  on  the  saddle,  and  adjust 
reins,  etc.,  as  in  fig.  9.  Then  give  him  a  thorough  course  of 
reining  lessons,  as  in  Lesson  X.,  and  while  doing  so,  provoke 
him  to  rear  by  trigging  back  on  the  reins  at  the  same  time 
tapping  him  with  the  whip.  When  he  rears,  or  just  as  he 
attempts  to,  step  off  to  the  left  quickly,  as  in  fig.  10,  and  cut 
him  down  by  throwing  outward  and  downward  with  the  safety- 
rein  in   the   left   hand.     In   this  way   you    control   him   from 


60  l»llOGRESSn^E    CONTROL    OA  EK 

rearing.     When  he  rears  he  forces  the  bit  against  the  roof  of 
his  mouth,  and  a  few  lessons  will  educate  him  not  to  do  it. 

THE  HORSE  THAT  BREAKS  IN  TROTTING. 

Put  on  bridle,  have  cheek-straps  buckled  so  the  bit  comes 
just  to  the  corners  of  the  month,  fasten  the  keeper  on  nose 
about  four  inches  above  full  control,  and  drop  the  loops  down 
to  the  ends  of  the  over-draws.  Run  the  leaders  through  the 
loo23s,  then  through  the  terrets  as  in  fig.  12.  Hitch  to  a  vehicle 
and  drive  out  on  the  road.  When  on  the  road,  adjust  the  loops 
so  that  when  the  horse's  head  is  at  its  natural  carriage,  there 
will  be  an  equal  purchase  on  reins  and  over-draws.  If,  when 
driving,  the  over-draws  appear  slack,  buckle  the  loops  up. 
When  they  are  rightly  adjusted,  drive  easy  until  he  gets  accus- 
tomed to  the  bridle,  then  gradually  increase  his  speed  and  in 
the  course  of  an  hour  he  will  be  going  nicely.  If  he  pulls  too 
much,  put  the  keeper  down  on  bis  nose.  If  he  doesn't  take 
hold  enough,  put  the  keeper  up  on  the  nose.  If  his  mouth  is 
too  sensitive  for  a  four-ring  bit,  have  two  rings  put  on  a 
straight  bit,  then  buckle  the  over-draws  into  the  rings  and 
drive  as  directed. 

THE    CHECK-EIGHTER. 

Put  on  bridle  for  full  control  as  in  fig.  3.  Put  one  end  of  a 
small  rope  through  the  ring  on  the  center  of  crown-piece,  bring 
it  down  and  pass  it  through  one  of  the  inner  rings  on  the  bit, 
then  over  the  nose  and  through  the  other  inner  ring,  and  fasten 
it  in  a  knot,  on  the  nose,  to  the  rope.  Then  take  hold  of  the 
other  end  of  the  rope,  catch  it  under  the  water  hook  and  take 
hold  of  the  near  leader  with  the  left  hand.  Pull  forward  on 
the  rope,  and  when  he  begins  to  fight  check  correct  him  by 
snapping  down  on  the  near  leader.  AVhen  he  stops  fighting, 
tie  the  rope  to  the  water  hook  and  lead  him  about  for  a  few 
minutes.  Repeat  the  lesson  a  few  times,  and  when  you  drive, 
have  the  reins  through  the  loops  as  in  fig.  12. 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  Gl 


THE    BITIoR   AND    STRIKER. 

This  is  always  a  case  of  viciousness,  and  should  be  handled 
with  lirmuess,  care  and  patience.  It  usually  accompanies  a 
uaturalh'-  treacherous  disposition,  and  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
reform  the  natural  proclivities.  Whatever  good  effects  are  to 
])e  had,  can  be  obtained  by  a  thorough  and  systematic  control- 
ling by  the  use  of  the  controlling  bridle  adjusted  for  full  control 
as  in  fig.  3.  He  should  be  handled  in  every  conceivable  man- 
ner, and  made  to  do  everything  your  ingenuity  can  devise  that 
he  will  object  to  do.  His  head  should  be  thoroughly  handled 
in  every  direction  as  in  Lesson  V.  It  should  be  held  down  to 
first  one  fore-foot,  then  the  other,  by  passing  the  leader  under 
his  fetlock  and  drawing  on  it.  Handle  his  hind  feet  on  the 
safety-rein  as  in  Lesson  V.  and  fig.  7.  Then  make  him  hold 
his  nose  up  in  the  air  and  around  to  each  side.  Fasten  the 
leader  in  the  thill-lug  on  one  side,  thus  holding  his  head 
around,  and  make  him  waltz  around  each  way.  Lay  him  down 
a  few  times,  as  in  Lesson  VIL,  then  give  him  a  complete  rein- 
ing lesson  as  in  Lesson  X.  In  fact,  show  him  that  you  are 
iiis  superior,  and  can  compel  him  to  do  anything  you  wish  ; 
this  will  cause  him  to  respect  you,  and  in  a  few  handlings  he 
will  cease  his  vicious  practices. 

THE    UNRULY    STALLION. 

Adjust  the  bridle  for  full  control  and  take  position  as  in  fig. 
o.  Touch  him  about  with  the  "controlling  touch,"  as  ex- 
plained in  Lesson  III.,  for  about  two  minutes  before  handling 
to  mares,  and  "  cover"  with  the  off  leader  over  the  neck,  restrain- 
ing him  with  the  "controlling  touch "  when  necessary.  He 
should  be  thoroughly  and  repeatedly  handled  by  the  bridle  and 
brought  under  control  of  it,  as  in  Lesson  Y.,  when  no  mares 
are  about. 

A  mare  can  be  handled  to  a  stallion,  without  the  use  of  the 
fetters,  by  giving  her  the   "  controlling  touch  "  a  few   times, 


62  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

and,  when  being  covered,  holding  hard  downward  and  back- 
ward on  the  off  leader  over  the  neck,  at  the  same  time  holding 
her  nose  up  with  the  left  hand  grasping  the  near  leader  close 
to  the  bit. 

THE   HORSE   BAD   ABOUT    BRIDLING. 

If  very  difficult  to  bridle,  have  Ihe  cheek-straps  adjusted  so 
the  bridle  will  be  loose,  then  put  in  the  bit  and  pull  the  keeper 
down  so  as  to  get  close  control.  Grasp  both  reins  in  left  hand 
close  under  the  chin,  and  cause  the  bit  to  press  against  the 
controlling  spot  in  the  center  of  the  roof  of  the  mouth.  Then 
adjust  the  crown-piece  of  the  bridle  over  the  ears,  fix  the 
bridle  for  full  control  and  take  position  as  in  fig.  3.  Now 
handle  the  head  and  ears  in  every  conceivable  shape,  as  in 
Lesson  Y.  and  repeat  the  lesson  until  you  have  the  head 
thoroughly  controlled  and  educated.  If  the  horse  objects  to 
taking  the  bit,  unbuckle  the  bridle  from  the  bit  on  one  side, 
then,  holding  a  side  of  the  bridle  in  each  hand,  step  before 
him,  raise  the  bridle  carefully  up  and  drop  it  over  his  ears. 
Then  put  the  bit  in  his  mouth  and  adjust  the  bridle,  when  you 
will  handle  his  head  and  mouth  and  pass  another  bit  in  and  out 
repeatedly,  giving  him  the  "controlling  touch"  whenever  he 
objects.  Some  cases  can  be  cured  by  letting  them  take  a  few 
pieces  of  apple  from  the  hand,  then  let  them  take  the  bit  and 
apple  together  and  adjust  the  bridle  when  they  are  eating  the 
apple. 

In  every  case  that  is  handled,  no  matter  what  the  fault  may 
be,  it  should  be  a  rule,  in  order  to  get  the  best  results,  to 
reward  the  horse  for  every  act  of  obedience  by  giving  him  a. 
bite  of  something  like  apples  or  potatoes.  In  this  way  you 
explain  to  him  that  he  has  obeyed  your  wishes. 

UNRULY   IN    SHAFTING    OR   UNSHAETING. 

Have  bridle  on  for  full  control  and  take  position  as  in  fig.  3. 
Handle  about  the  floor  by  the  "  controlling  touch,"  as  explained. 


COLTS    AXD    HORSES.  63' 

in  Lesson  III.,  for  a  few  minutes,  and  if  he  is  afraid  of  the 
shafts,  handle  them  all  about  his  body  as  in  Lesson  XIII.,  in 
educating  colt  to  the  shafts.  Then  handle  him  in  and  out  of 
the  shafts  repeatedly,  until  he  goes  pleasantly.  Give  him  the 
"  controlling  touch  "  if  he  attempts  to  jump  or  plunge  in  or 
out. 

TO  CONTROL  FOR  CLIPPING,  CASTRATING,  BATHING  SORES, 

CLEANING  SHEATH,  MILKING   OUT,  CRUPPERING, 

HARNESSING,    UNHARNESSING,    ETC. 

Have  bridle  on  for  full  control,  and  take  position  as  in  fig.  3. 
Give  the  "  controlling  touch,"  as  explained  in  Lesson  III.,  tak- 
ing him  around  a  few  times  and  stopping  him  at  the  word 
"  whoa  "  by  setting  straight  down  on  both  reins.  Then  pro- 
ceed to  handle  as  you  wish,  and  if  he  objects,  give  the  "  con- 
trolling touch." 

INSTRUCTIONS  TO  BLACKSMITHS  FOR  CONTROLLING 
COLTS  AND  HORSES  FOR  SHOEING. 

Many  jerkers,  leaners,  and  horses  that  are  restless  in  the- 
shop,  can  be  controlled  by  putting  the  hand  across  the  animal's 
nose,  and  with  the  thumb  in  his  mouth,  bringing  a  pressure  to 
bear  with  the  end  of  the  thumb  in  the  center  of  the  roof  of  his 
mouth,  just  forward  of  the  molar  teeth.  The  pressure  of  the 
thumb  on  the  controlling  nerve  will  control  the  horse  ;  but,  in 
addition  to  the  control,  it  will  serve  to  take  his  attention  if  you 
let  the  thumb-nail  bear  against  the  membrane  a  little.  Many 
horses  can  be  controlled  by  bringing  a  pressure  to  bear  with  the 
thumb  under  the  lower  jaw,  up  against  the  tongue,  just  back  of 
where  the  jaw-bones  meet.  Most  leaners  can  be  shod  without 
trouble,  by  stepping  to  the  other  side,  or  between  the  hind  legs, 
and  picking  their  feet  up  the  other  way.  A  horse  that  leans 
on  the  smith  should  not  have  his  feet  held  up  too  high,  and 
when  he  leans  over,  instead  of  holding  up  against  him,  the 
foot  should  be  lowered  a  little.  This  will  give  him  nothing  to 
lean  on,  and  in  a  short  time  he  will  stop  it. 


64  PROaRESSIVE  COXTROL  OVER 

Some  horses  are  difficult  to  shoe  because  they  have  spavins 
or  sore  joints  ;  and  when  the  smith  lifts  the  foot,  he  cramps 
the  joints  and  hurts  the  horse.  Such  horses  should  be  shod 
with  the  foot  as  low  down  as  possible.  If  it  hurts  a  spavined 
leg  to  stand  on  it  while  the  other  foot  is  being  shod ,  keep  the 
foot  up  as  short  a  time  as  possible.  A  horse  that  has  string- 
halt,  or  stiff  joints,  should  not  have  his  leg  stretched  out  too 
far  behind. 

The  majority  of  colts  and  unruly  horses  that  are  bad  about 
shoeing,  can  be  controlled  by  having  the  bridle  on  for  full  con- 
trol, and,  taking  position  as  in  fig.  3,  giving  them  a  few  touches 
with  the  rein  over  the  back  of  the  neck,  taking  them  around  in 
a  circle  a  couple  of  times,  saying  "  w^hoa,"  and  setting  down 
on  both  reins.  Then,  while  being  shod,  let  some  one  stand  by 
the  head  and  occasionally  give  him  the  "  controlling  touch  "  by 
touching  down  on  the  rein  over  the  neck. 

If  a  desperate  kicker  comes  in,  put  on  the  bridle  for  full  con- 
trol, and  put  safety  rein  on  off  side  in  place  of  off  leader. 
(See  illustration  of  opposite  side  of  fig.  6.)  Then  take  position 
iis  in  fig.  3.  Give  the  "controlling  touch"  over  the  neck  a 
few  times  by  touching  down  on  the  safety-rein.  Then  throw 
safety-rein  about  his  heels,  and  hang  hold  of  the  end,  as  in 
fig.  6.  If  he  has  an  ounce  of  brains,  he  will  not  kick  more 
than  three  times  on  the  safety-rein.  Then  toss  the  safety-rein 
over  the  back,  and  pass  it  under  the  fetlock  of  near  hind  leg 
as  in  fig.  7.  Then  handle  a  few  minutes,  as  in  Lesson  Y.  and 
handle  the  foot  in  a  loop  of  the  rein  while  shoeing. 

A  quiet  and  firm  manner  on  the  part  of  the  smith  will  have  a 
great  influence  over  a  colt  or  horse  in  the  shop. 

Of  course  it  is  useless  to  furnish  instructions  to  any  man  who 
Tvill  abuse  a  method  ;  and  the  originator  of  any  system  need  not 
be  held  responsible  for  the  imperfect  workings  of  that  system, 
if  it  is  not  intelligently  applied.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  a  gen- 
eral introduction  of  this  work  will  stimulate  those  who  grow 
oolts  to  so  educate  them,  that,  when  they  are  brought  into  the 
shop,  the  blacksmith  will  not  be  required  to  both  educate  and 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  65 

shoe  them  for  the  small  pittance  he  gets  for  shoeing.  Many 
men  have  said  to  me  that  "the  blacksmiths  are  the  ones  to 
learn  how  to  educate  a  horse's  feet."  I  have  replied,  that  "  look- 
ing at  it  from  the  stand-point  of  a  man  who  has  no  regard  for 
either  his  horse  or  his  fellow-man,  that  is  so  ;  but  looking  at  it 
from  the  blacksmith's  side,  it  isn't  a  "fair  shake"  to  ask 
him  to  break  his  back  educating  your  horse,  when  he  earns  his 
money  dearly  enough  by  shoeing  for  the  small  price  he  is  com- 
pelled to."  But  no  matter  how  many  systems  there  were  intro- 
duced, every  man  wouldn't  educate  his  colts' or  horses'  feet  to 
be  shod.  Such  being  the  case,  the  smiths  must  do  it,  and  the 
easiest  method  is  the  best.  More  smiths  have  lame  backs  from 
their  struggles  in  holding  unruly  horses'  feet  than  from  any 
other  cause  ;  and  if  the  introduction  of  this  volume  will  make 
their  work  easier,  it  will  have  served  its  purpose  well. 

TO  CURE  A  SWITCHER  WITHOUT  CUTTING  THE  TAIL. 

Divide  the  hair  on  the  tail  in  two  parts,  and  braid  each  part 
down  to  a  point.  Tie  a  strong  cord,  or  small  rope,  about  four 
feet  long,  to  the  end  of  each  braid.  Put  a  collar  and  hames 
on  the  switcher.  Put  the  tail  directly  up  over  the  back,  and  run 
the  cords  through  the  lower  rings  of  the  hames.  Then  pull  the 
tail  down  snug  enough  to  the  back  to  keep  it  from  dropping 
over  to  either  side,  and  tie  the  cords  in  the  hame-riugs.  Buckle 
a  circingle  about  the  horse,  over  the  cords  to  keep  them  in  place, 
and  let  the  tail  stay  up  ten  or  twelve  hours.  Then  take  it  down, 
and  the  switching  is  usually  stopped.  If  it  should  return, 
repeat  the  operation. 

THE  HALTER-PULLER. 

Bend  down  a  birch,  or  other  stout  sapling,  or  pull  down  a 
long  tree-limb,  tie  the  halter  to  the  top  and  let  go.  When  the 
horse  pulls,  he  can  only  sit  down  on  his  haunches.  Let  him 
work  until  he  stops  pulling,  and  repeat  if  necessary. 


66  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 


TO  PREVENT  A  HORSE  GETTING  CAST  IX  THE  STALL. 

This  is  usually  caused  b}^  the  habit  of  rolling  in  the  stall. 
In  order  to  prevent  it,  fasten  a  ring  to  the  top  of  the  halter, 
fasten  the  tie-rope  to  this  ring,  run  it  over  a  couple  of  pulleys 
and  fasten  a  weight  to  the  other  end.  Have  the  rope  just  long 
enough,  so  that,  when  lying  down,  the  horse's  nose  will  not 
quite  touch  the  floor.  If  he  cannot  get  hh  head  down  he 
cannot  roll.  Another  method  is  to  tie  him  with  ropes  from 
both  sides  of  the  stall,  so  that  when  he  lies  down  he  cannot  get 
his  head  down  to  roll. 

TO    PREVENT   HORSES   FROM   NIPPING   AND   TEARING 
BLANKETS. 

Saw  a  block  of  wood  three  and  one-half  inches  long  and  one 
and  one-half  inches  square.  Bore  a  three-sixteenths  inch  hole 
lengthwise  through  the  center.  Round  the  ends  like  the  small 
end  of  an  eo-o-  and  round  the  corners  a  little.  Pnt  a  cord 
through  the  hole  in  the  center  of  the  block  and  tie  a  knot  in 
the  cord  at  each  end  of  the  block.  If  he  nips  when  grooming, 
tie  this  block  in  his  mouth  in  place  of  the  bit,  by  tieing  the 
ends  of  the  cord  to  the  sides  of  the  halter.  If  he  tears  his 
blanket,  after  he  eats  tie  the  block  in  his  mouth.  With  this  in 
his  mouth  he  cannot  shut  his  teeth  together  ;  and  if  he  goes  to 
nip,  the  block  punishes  him  in  the  roof  of  his  mouth  and  he 
soon  stops  it. 

A  nipping  stallion  can  be  cured  of  the  habit  by  prodding 
him  a  few  times  up  under  his  lip,  against  his  upper  jaw,  with 
the  thumb-nail.  If  you  strike  at  him  with  the  hand  it  is  only 
an  invitation  for  him  to  come  again  and  serves  to  strengthen 
the  habit. 

THE  BREACHY  HORSE,  OR  ONE  HARD  TO  CATCH  IN  A 
PASTURE. 

Unstrand  two  old  pieces  of  inch  rope,  four  feet  long  each. 
Lav  the  six  strands  alongjside  of   each  other   and  tie  them  all 


COLTS    AND    HORSES.  67 

together  in  a  knot  at  each  end.  The  knots  should  be  a  little 
over  four  feet  apart.  You  now  have  a  "  western  hobble." 
To  put  it  on  the  horse,  place  the  center  around  one  fore-leg 
above  the  ankle,  bring  both  ends  together  and  twist  the  strands 
around  until  there  is  enough  left  between  the  twisted  strands 
and  the  knots  to  go  around  the  other  leg,  when  you  fasten  the 
ends  about  the  other  leg  by  tucking  the  knots  in  between  the 
strands  and  pulling  them  together.  Pawing  in  the  stall  can 
also  be  stopped  by  letting  the  horse  wear  the  "  western  hobble," 
as  described  for  breachy  horses. 

KICKING   IN    STALL   AT   NIGHT. 

This  fault  can  be  eradicated  by  fastening  a  strong  suspender 
buckle  to  one  end  of  a  piece  of  stout  elastic  webbing  and 
buckling  it  tightly  about  the  leg  just  above  the  hock.  The 
uneasy  sensation  produced  by  kicking  will  cause  the  horse  to 
stop  the  habit. 

CROWDING   AND    KICKING   WHEN    ENTERING    THE    STALLw 

Control  and  handle  as  with  the  biter,  then,  with  the  safety- 
rein  on  near  side  and  through  the  loop  on  near  side,  pass  in 
and  out  of  the  stall,  correcting  on  safety-rein  if  he  attempts  to 
kick  or  crowd.     Repeat  the  lesson  until  a  cure  is  effected. 

THE    KICKER. 

The  first  thing  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  is,  why  does  he 
kick?  There  will  be  found  to  be  most  as  many  causes  as 
kickers.  If  the  horse  kicks  from  sheer  ugliness,  or  desire  to 
destroy,  he  should  he  taken  in  hand  and  controlled  and  edu- 
cated all  over  and  all  through,  until  a  thorough  reformation  is 
made.  With  such  a  horse,  begin  by  controlling  and  educating 
the  head  by  handling  him  as  in  Lesson  V.,  under  full  control 
of  the  bridle  as  in  fig.  3.  Compel  him  to  go  into  every  con- 
ceivable place.     Make  him  hold  his  head  in  every  immaginable 


68  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

position  ;  and,  if  he  resists,  give  hiaa  tlie  "  controlling  touch" 
as  esi)laiued  in  Lesson  III.  Then  handle  him  head  and  foot 
together  by  passing  the  leader  under  his  fetlock,  drawing  his 
nose  down  to  his  foot  and  making  him  hold  it  there.  Then 
pick  his  hind  feet  up  on  the  safety-rein,  as  explained  in  Lesson 
Y.,  in  "  educating  a  colt  to  be  shod."  When  he  can  be 
handled  by  the  bridle  in  every  respect,  then  put  on  the  saddle 
and  adjust  reins  and  safety-reins  as  in  fig.  9.  Then  put  him 
about  the  stable,  rein  him  about  from  right  to  left  as  in  Lesson 
X.  using  the  whip  suflficiently  to  get  plenty  of  motion.  Then 
compel  him  to  go  to  the  corners  and  other  places  by  taking 
position  as  in  fig.  10  and  throwing  the  safety-rein  as  described 
in  Lesson  X.,  and  finally  drive  him  about  the  floor  under  the 
whip,  setting  heavily  back  on  the  reins  at  the  word  "  whoa  " 
until  he  is  under  thorough  control  and  afraid  of  the  bit.  If 
YOU  think  he  is  sufficiently  controlled  to  be  safe  to  drive,  take 
the  knots  out  of  the  leaders  and  drive  with  the  reins  through 
the  loops  as  in  fig.  12,  with  the  loops  buckled  well  up  on  the 
over-draws.  When  on  the  road  j'ou  should  set  back  on  the 
reins  occasionally,  so  as  to  remind  him  of  your  control ;  keep 
a  careful  watch  of  him,  and  when  he  shows  a  sign  of  kicking 
shout  "whoa"  and  set  back  on  the  reins,  at  the  same  time 
jerk  back  hard  on  the  safety-rein,  which  will  throw  the  bit  to 
the  roof  of  his  mouth  and  control  him  and  will  throw  his  nose 
into  the  air  and  prevent  his  kicking.  It  will  also  be  well  to 
check  him  well  up  by  tightening  the  thong  used  as  a  check  in 
fig.  9.  By  so  doing  you  will  get  the  bit  to  act  well  and  keep 
your  control  better.  If  he  shouldn't  appear  safe  to  drive  after 
the  first  lesson,  give  him  another  and  get  him  under  perfect 
control  before  you  start.  If  he  is  under  perfect  control  he 
won't  kick.  Drive  him  constantly  with  the  bridle,  being  sure 
to  give  him  a  floor  lesson  each  time  before  driving  him  until 
you  are  sure  he  will  behave. 

If  the  horse  kicks  because  he  is  afraid  of  the  shafts  or  any 
thing  that  comes  against  his  legs,  or  because  the  rein  gets 
under  his  tail,  educate  those  different  parts  by  repeated  handling 


COLTS    A^T>   HORSES.  69 

on  the  floor,  with  the  bridle  on  for  full  control  as  in  fig.  3. 
Take  a  pole  and  play  it  all  about  his  body  and  legs.  If  he 
objects,  control  him  by  touching  him  over  the  neck  with  the 
rein,  and  repeat  this  lesson  with  the  pole  until  he  will  stand 
quietly  and  allow  you  to  handle  it  all  over  his  body  and  legs. 
Then  lead  him  about  with  the  pole  between  his  fore  legs  and 
teach  him  to  step  over  it  when  he  feels  it  rub  his  legs.  Then 
do  the  same  with  his  hind  legs  by  holding  the  pole  in  one  hand 
and  leading  him  with  the  other.  Soon  you  can  tie  the  end  of 
the  pole  to  the  breast-plate  and  let  it  drag,  driving  him  about 
with  it  between  his  legs.  Soon  you  can  take  two  poles,  run 
one  through  each  thill-lug,  let  them  trail  along  the  floor  and 
drive  him  about  the  stable  and  yard.  In  this  way  you  can 
educate  him  so  he  will  become  perfectly  indifferent  to  anything 
striking  his  heels  and  will  stand  it  all  good-naturedly.  When 
he  shows  that  he  is  educated,  drive  him,  and  not  before,  for 
you  are  risking  too  much  to  run  chances.  You  can  better 
afford  to  give  him  three  lessons  too  many,  than  one  too  few.  A 
kicking  horse  can  be  driven  without  his  kicking,  by  tieing  a 
stout  piece  of  cord  tightly  around  the  tail,  under  the  hair  just 
below  the  root  of  the  tail  before  driving  out.  This  method  is 
a  preventive  only  ;  for  he  will  kick  as  bad  when  the  cord  is 
removed.  It  is  with  a  kicker  as  it  is  with  every  other  vice  : 
simply  a  matter  of  education.  The  kicker  can  be  treated  by  the 
Rarey  system  of  subduing,  be  inspired  with  fear  of  his  trainer 
and  he  will  not  kick  while  that  man  drives  him.  But  when  he 
is  driven  by  another,  his  desire  to  kick  not  being  eradicated,  he 
will  acquire  the  habit  again.  This  method  will  make  a  perma- 
nent cure  of  the  habit,  because  it  is  controlling,  instead  of  sub- 
duing, and  it  removes  the  desire  by  the  process  of  education. 

Of  course  it  is  understood  that,  in  speaking  of  educating 
horses,  of  whatever  fault,  horses  with  no  intelligence,  such  as 
"  dummies"  and  "  lunkheads"  are  not  included  ;  for  the  word 
"  educate  "  can  only  apply  in  a  case  where  there  is  something 
in  the  form  of  brains  to  work  on.  The  horse  with  no  intelli- 
gence must  be  appealed  to  through  his  body  by  the   infliction 


70  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OYER 

of  pain,  niid  as  that  requires  harsh  treatment,  no  directions 
for  handling  sncli  cases  will  be  found  in  these  pages. 

It  may  also  be  said  that  there  are  incorrigibles  among  horses 
as  well  as  men,  and  that  it  is  an  impossibility  to  reclaim  some 
of  them  from  their  vicious  tendencies  ;  but  it  does  not  follow 
that  these  same  horses,  if  properly  trained  when  young,  would 
still  have  been  vicious.  Old  and  vicious  stallions  of  combative 
xind  courageous  dispositions,  that,  when  they  first  broke  away 
from  control  were  whipped  and  clubbed  by  their  ignorant 
trainers  until  they  considered  man  their  natural  enemy,  but,  in 
the  contest  of  brute  force  against  brute  force  have  been  victo- 
Tious  every  time,  can  be  said  to  be  irreclaimable,  as  the  passion 
induced  by  the  approach  of  man  amounts  to  madness.  Such 
horses  have  been,  and  can  be,  subdued  and  rendered  docile  for 
the  time  being,  but  there  is  no  record  of  their  ever  having  been 
permanently  cured  of  their  viciousness  and  made  safe  for  any 
ordinary  horseman  to  handle. 

Old  and  vicious  kickers  and  balkers,  also,  may  be  classed 
among  those  that  cannot  be  reclaimed.  If  they  had  been  intel- 
ligently handled  when  they  first  acquired  the  fault,  no  doubt  they 
would  have  become  serviceable  animals.  But  they  have  been 
fought  with  and  tortured  by  their  brutal  drivers  so  long,  that 
they  mistrust  and  hate  man  on  general  principles ;  and  their 
faults  have  become  so  firmly  seated  that  their  increased  value 
would  not  recompense  for  the  time  and  trouble  of  handling  them. 

So  the  most  that  can  be  done,  then,  is  to  let  this  class  of 
horses  pass  away,  and  do  our  duty  by  educating  the  coming 
generations  of  colts  so  that  they  will  develop  no  bad  habits. 
This  will  not  be  a  difficult  matter  if  farmers,  and  others  who 
are  growing  colts,  will  inform  themselves  in  methods  of  training 
that  are  calculated  to  produce  the  best  results  in  the  education 
of  their  colts.  Having  a  method  of  perfect  control  and  follow- 
ing a  complete  system  in  educating,  in  connection  with  the  high 
degree  of  intelligence  that  the  well-bred  colts  of  to-day  possess, 
will  sureh^  result  in  untold  benefits  to  the  horsemen  and  bring 
the  education  of  the  future  horse  to  a  state  of  perfection. 


COLTS    AND    HOKISES.  71 


co^^CLusio:^^. 


An  examination  of  bits  of  ancient  construction  will  show 
that,  ages  ago,  horsemen  were  possessed  of  the  knowledge, 
that  a  slight  pressure  brought  to  bear  in  the  centre  of  the  roof 
of  a  horse's  mouth  would  have  a  wonderfully  controlling  effect 
upon  the  animal  and  render  him  docile.  They  constructed 
their  bits  in  such  a  manner,  by  elevating  the  centre,  that  with 
a  slight  pressure  on  the  rein,  the  centre  of  the  bit  would  press 
against  the  roof  of  the  mouth  and  bring  the  horse  under  con- 
trol. The  slight  construction  of  their  bridle  aud  reins  made  it 
impossible  for  them  to  make  the  bit  an  implement  of  torture, 
and  rendered  it  necessary  for  them  to  handle  their  horses  with 
a  delicate  touch  else  they  would  lose  their  control  by  breaking 
the  rein.  Nor  was  it  necessary  for  them  to  use  a  great  amount 
of  strength  in  order  to  obtain  control,  for  the  spot  upon 
which  they  controlled  was  very  sensitive,  aud  required  but  a 
gentle  pressure  upon  it  in  order  to  briug  the  animal's  attention 
to  business.  It  is  positive,  then,  that  they  well  knew  the 
existence  of  this  controlling  spot  in  the  horse's  mouth ;  and 
this  fact,  in  connection  with  the  supposition  that  a  wise  Creator 
would,  in  designing  a  powerful  animal  for  man's  use,  provide  a 
means  by  which  its  powers  could  be  controlled  and  made  useful, 
would  lead  us  to  believe  that  the  ancients  controlled  their 
horses  as  was  intended  they  should  be  controlled.  But  when 
we  came  to  use  the  modern  leather  reins  in  connection  with 
that  bit,  the  strength  of  the  reins  made  it  possible  to  make  the 
bit  a  harsh  appliauce  in  the  horse's  mouth  ;  hence  its  gradual 
alteration,  uutil  now  we  have  a  bit  that  cannot  be  made  cruel 
with  anything  like  moderate  usage. 


72  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

A  study  of  the  anatomy  of  a  horse's  head,  especially  that  pari 
pertaining  to  the  nerves,  will  demonstrate  that  there  is  a  nerve, 
termed  the  "superior  maxillary  nerve,"'  running  fi'om  the  roof  of 
the  mouth  to  the  brain  of  the  horse  ;  and  the  end  of  this  nerve 
was  the  point  reached  by  the  older  forms  of  bits.  By  the  use 
of  a  Wilson,  four-ring,  double-joint  bit,  in  connection  with  a 
bridle  constructed  like  the  one  in  fig.  2,  and  by  properly  arrang- 
ing and  handling  the  reins,  as  explained  in  the  several  lessons  in 
this  book,  we  get  the  same  control  as  was  obtained  by  the  ancient 
bits,  by  causing  the  center  of  the  joint-bit  to  press  against  the 
end  of  this  nerve,  where  it  terminates  in  the  membrane  of  the 
roof  of  the  mouth.  Those  who  have  practiced  this  system  of 
control  can  testify,  that  not  only  is  the  influence  of  a  pressure 
on  this  nerve  controlling,  but  it  is  also  soothing,  and  tends  to 
remove  the  nervousness  and  irritability  of  the  horse  :  two  results 
which  are  most  to  be  desired  while  we  are  endeavoring  to  edu- 
cate him,  for  then  we  are  enabled  to  keep  his  mind  calm  and 
in  a  condition  which  will  enable  us  to  make  a  permanent 
impression  as  each  lesson  is  given. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  system  of  educating  colts  and  horses, 
as  given  in  this  book,  is  much  the  same  as  that  applied  in  the 
education  of  a  child.  We  begin  by  teaching  him  the  rudiments 
first,  and  laying  a  foundation  upon  which  to  build  ;  then,  by 
adding  one  lesson  after  another,  we  finally  reach  that  stage 
in  his  education  w^hich  simply  amounts  to  perfection,  and  we 
have  an  animal  that  is  a  credit  both  to  himself  and  his  trainer. 

"A  BAD  PENNY  ALWAYS  RETURNS,"  BUT  A  LOANED 
BOOK  SELDOM  DOES. 

If  your  "  cute  "  neighbor,  whp  is  always  depending  on  others 
to  supply  him  with  valuable  information,  while  he  keeps  his  own 
dollars  tied  up  in  the  toe  of  his  stocking,  asks  you  to  lend  him 
your  book,  tell  him  where  he  can  buy  one,  and  keep  j^our  book  in 
your  own  possession.  In  doing  so,  you  show  your  own  wisdom 
and  a  desire  to  benefit  the  one  to  whom  you  are  indebted  for 


COLTS    AND   HORSES.  7^ 

furnishing  a  valuable  work  at  so  little  expense  ;  besides  which, 
a  book  containing  information  of  this  character  should  be  held 
as  a  legacy  to  your  sons,  to  benefit  them  in  years  to  come.  If 
it  is  lost  they  will  be  deprived  of  that  which  would  be  of  great 
value  to  them. 


THE  TREATMENT  OF  DISEASES. 

Every  man  who  ever  wrote  a  book  on  horse-training,  has 
culled  a  lot  of  recipes  and  formulas  for  the  treatment  of  diseases 
from  various  sources,  and  printed  them  in  his  book  to  offset 
weak  points  in  his  work,  and  make  people  believe  they  were 
getting  the  worth  of  their  money  ;  and,  in  so  doing,  they  com- 
mitted a  grave  error  in  assuming  knowledge  concerning  matters 
of  which  they  were  ignorant,  worked  incalculable  damage  to 
those  who  trusted  to  their  knowledge,  and  defrauded  the  public 
by  obtaining  money  for  a  lot  of  worthless  matter.  The  posses- 
sion of  these  recipes  has  worked  more  harm  than  good  to  the 
owners  of  horses  who  were  unskilled  in  the  location  and  treat- 
ment of  diseases,  for  the  remedies  were  invariably  misapplied. 
While  the  administration  of  a  good  remedy,  according  to  the 
directions  contained  in  the  recipe,  might  accidentally  be  adapted 
to  the  disease  and  condition  of  the  horse  at  the  time  of  treat- 
ment, in  the  majority  of  cases  the  location  of  the  trouble 
can  be  determined  by  a  skillful  practitioner  only,  and  the  stage  of 
the  disease  and  condition  of  the  animal  might  demand  a  radical 
change  in  any  prescribed  treatment. 

Such  being  the  case,  I  abstain  from  printing  any  recipes  iu 
this  work,  and  content  myself  with  treating  on  the  education  of 
the  horse  :  a  subject  on  which  I  have  often  been  asked  to  write. 
My  advice  would  be  to  consult  a  competent  veterinarian,  and 
not  assume  responsibility  where  a  slight  mistake  would  be  fatal 
in  its  consequences  ;  and,  in  giving  this  advice,  I  think  I  am 
conferring  a  greater  benefit  on  my  readers  than  I  would  were  1 
to  publish  all  the  recipes  and  formulas  in  existence. 


74  PROGRESSIVE  COXTROL  OVER 


TESTIMO^^IALS. 


Having  been  repeatedly  requested  b}^  hundreds  of  horsemen, 
to  whom  I  have  taiio-ht  this  system  of  educatinsj  colts  and 
unruly  horses,  to  publish  this  system  in  book  form,  so  that  it 
would  reach  the  multitude  and  benefit  the  coming  generations 
of  horsemen,  I  have  written  and  arranged  the  foregoing  pages, 
as  best  I  could,  in  order  to  gratify  those  requests.  Many  men 
have  said  to  me  :  "  Professor,  a  general  introduction  of  your 
system  is  of  so  much  importance  to  horsemen,  and  of  such  vast 
benefit  to  the  interests  of  the  horse  from  a  humanitarian  stand- 
point, that  you  ought  not  to  come  to  our  town,  stay  a  few  days 
only,  teach  the  system  to  a  limited  number  and  then  depart ; 
but  you  should  stay  longer,  until  ever}^  man  who  owns  a  horse 
has  received  your  instructions."  Stimulated  by  such  remarks, 
I  often  appointed  dates  for  another  course  of  lectures  and  fre- 
quently formed  larger  classes  than  on  my  first  visit.  But  the 
introduction  of  the  system  was  necessarily  limited  by  that 
method,  and  it  could  be  generally  introduced  only  through  the 
medium  of  a  book,  in  which  every  step  taken  in  the  process  of 
■educating  the  colt  and  horse,  is  thoroughly  explained  and  illus- 
trated as  it  is  in  this  work. 

I  am  aware  that  several  books,  treating  on  the  education  of 
the  horse  have  been  published ;  and  while  these  books  have 
their  merits,  the  methods  taught  by  them  are  too  harsh  to  meet 
with  the  approval  of  those  who  have  the  welfare  of  the  horse 
at  heart,  are  too  complicated  and  impractical,  and  the  greatest 
objection  is,  that  they  treat  on  the  subject  in  too  general  a 
manner  and  do  not  go  into  details  :  attention  to  which  is  most 
important  in  the  prosecution  of  any  undertaking. 

In  this  book  I  have  started  with  the  sucking  colt  and  fol- 
lowed him  in  his  education,  from  the  time  he  is  first  approached 


COLTS    AND     HORSES.  75 

by  man,  until  he  is  well  educated,  "  waywise  "  and  a  good 
ribbon-rein er."  I  have  arranged  each  lesson  in  its  order  as  it 
should  be  applied,  shown  what  should  be  done  first,  second 
and  last,  and  have  taken  especial  pains  in  each  lesson,  to 
describe  and  illustrate  the  process  by  which  his  education  may 
be  perfected  in  the  shortest  possible  time.  I  have  also  treated 
on  the  unruly  habits  of  horses  and  minutely  described  a  method 
by  which  they  may  be  educated  out  of  their  faults  without 
brutal  treatment  and  by  the  use  of  the  bridle  and  reins  only. 
Aside  from  this,  I  have  given  in  this  book  numberless  valu- 
able hints  concerning  the  management  and  care  of  colts  and 
horses,  a  study  and  practice  of  which  will  elevate  the  horse  lo 
his  proper  place  in  man's  estimation,  render  his  existence  more 
endurable  and  make  him  a  more  serviceable  animal. 

The  system  of  controlling  and  educating  colts  and  horses 
explained  in  this  book  is  entirely  new  and  has  never  before 
appeared  in  print.  The  matter  regarding  the  education  of 
colts  and  horses  is  not  the  cullings  from  any  other  book  or 
books,  but  is  the  result  of  my  own  thoughts  without  reference 
to  any  other  authority  ;  consequently  the  ideas  are  new  and  up 
to  the  times. 

.  The  following  testimonials  from  practical  horsemen,  in 
regard  to  my  method  of  educating  colts  and  horses,  will  show 
that  this  book  is  well  calculated  to  meet  the  wants  of  farmers, 
horsemen,  and  men  in  every  walk  of  life  who  wish  to  perfect 
themselves  in  knowledge  pertaining  to  the  horse  and  his 
education  : — 

Office  of  Geo.   H.   Bailey,  D.  V.  S.,      | 
Portland,   Me.,   April  8,  188G.  j 

To  Wliom  It  May  Concern :  — 

Having  had  occasion  to  look  into  the  system  of  educating 
horses  as  practiced  by  Prof.  W.  H.  Sanborn,  I  am  convinced 
he  has  originated  a  safe,  simple  and  practical  method  of  con- 
trolling the  most  vicious  and  unruly  horse  or  colt.  There  is 
more  in  his  system  to  approve,  and  less  to  condemn  than  iu 
auv  other  that  has  come  to  mv  notice. 

Geo.  H.  Bailey,  V.  S. 


76  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

Portland,  Me.,  March  30th,  1886. 
Other  men  have  preceded  Professor  Sanborn  ;  but  it  has 
remained  for  him  to  teach  a  perfect  system  of  control,  without 
torture,  which  will  apply  to  every  horse  irrespective  of  fault  or 
disposition.  He  uses  nothing  but  a  bridle,  reins  and  joint  bit 
to  control  and  handle  colts  and  horses  of  whatever  fault,  and 
he  obtains  the  most  satisfactory  results  without  the  least 
harshness  or  pain  to  the  animal.  Tn  fact,  his  system  is  a  reve- 
lation to  horsemen  ;  making  it  easy  for  them  to  accomplish 
feats  heretofore  considered  impossible,  viz.  :  controlling  bolters 
and  shyers  and  driving  timid  horses  to  locomotives,  umbrellas, 
etc.  The  most  commendable  features  of  his  system  are  its 
utility,  practicability,  and  the  ease  with  which  it  can  be  put 
into  use  by  others.  We  cordially  recommend  the  Professor 
and  his  system  to  all  who  are  interested  in  the  humane  treat- 
ment of  horses  and  colts. 

Chas.  McLaughlin,  Geo.  H.  Bailey,Y.  S., 

H.  Richardson,  V.  S.,  F.  W.  Huntington,  V.  S., 

E.  Maxwell,  V.  S.,  A.  G.  Sawyer, 

W.  H.  Snell,  F.  C.  Hayes, 

Whitman  Sawyer,  A.  M.  Sawyer,  S.  P.  C.  A., 

E.  W.  Hunt,  S.  Porter,  and  others. 

Yesterday  afternoon  at  the  livery  stable  of  F.  C.  Hayes  on 
Plum  Street,  about  twenty  gentlemen,  including  some  of  Port- 
land's leading  horsemen  witnessed  an  exhibition  of  Prof.  W. 
H.  Sanborn's  system  of  controlling  and  educating  horses.  Mr. 
Sanborn  is  from  Rochester,  New  York,  and  has  been  in  this 
State  for  some  time  teaching  his  system.  The  method  relies 
solely  upon  the  use  of  the  bit  and  bridle,  and  is  calculated  to 
meet  with  approval  from  everyone  anxious  for  the  introduction 
of  scientific  and  humane  methods  in  the  handling  of   horses. 

A  horse  belonging  to  Mr.  A.  M.  Austin  was  placed  under 
Mr.  Sanborn's  care  yesterday  afternoon.  It  has  been  almost 
impossible  in  the  past  to  bridle  the  animal,  but  in  a  few 
moments  this  was  done  and  the  horse  became  as  quiet  and 
tractable  as  could  be  wished.  The  gentlemen  present  testified 
to  their  pleasure  at  the  result  of  the  exhibition. — Portland 
Press,  March  31,  1886. 

Saturday  forenoon,  Professor  Sanborn  took  a  mare  belonging 
to  Joseph  A.  Kendall,  handled  her  a  few  minutes  before  Mr. 
Kendall,  Dr.  Richardson  and    some  others,  then  drove    her  to 


COLTS    AND     HORSES.  77 

the  P.  and  R.  depot,  where  she  coolly  and  repeatedly  put  her 
nose  against  the  locomotive  and  stood  in  the  steam  without 
showing  fear,  which  was  witnessed  by  quite  a  crowd.  The 
Professor  obtains  control  by  the  use  of  bridle  and  reins  only, 
and  assures  us  he  can  impart  his  method  to  others.  It  would 
be  valuable  imformation  to  every  horseman.  He  has  several 
other  timid  horses  to  educate  this  week.  Those  who  own 
unruly  horses  should  call  on  him.  He  evidently  understands 
his  business. — Portland  Me.,  Press,  April  5,  1886. 

"  His  twenty-seven  pupils  here  will  always  testify  to  his  great 
skill  as  an  educator  of  the  horse  and   colt." — Lincoln  County 

News. 

"  Professor  W.  H.  Sanborn  created  a  good  impression 
here.  His  system  of  educating  horses  and  colts  is  highly 
spoken  of  by  our  horsemen. — Rockland  Opinion. 

''  Professor  Sanborn,  by  his  remarkable  performances  in 
controlling  bolters,  kickers,  runaways,  horses  afraid  of  cars, 
etc.,  in  this  State,  has  gained  a  reputation  equalled  by  no  other 
man.  His  lectures  here  were  interesting  and  full  of  new, 
common  sense  and  practical  ideas  concerning  the  management 
and  education  of  the  colt,  and  those  who  attended  feel  well 
repaid." — Norway^  Me.,  Advertiser. 

"  The  class  of  Prof.  W.  H.  Sanborn  are  each  and  all  enthu- 
siastic over  his  system  and  teachings,  and  are  thoroughly  satis- 
fied that  he  has  fully  solved  the  problem  of  controlling  the 
horse  from  a  humanitarian  standpoint ;  all  his  methods  accom- 
plishing complete  and  satisfactory  results  without  any  species 
of  torture.  The  breaking  of  a  surly,  wilful,  chronic  bolter, 
-and  training  a  horse  afraid  of  smoke  to  walk  up  and  eat  of 
smoking  straw,  were  among  the  interesting  and  fun-provoking 
incidents." — Bridgton,  Me.,  News. 

"  A  horse  always  in  dread  of  an  umbrella,  was  driven  right 
up  to  one  spread,  and  exhibited  no  fear  w^hen  it  was  handled 
all  over  her,  and  this  on  the  street,  too." — Brunswick,  Me., 
Telegraph. 

"  Professor  Sanborn,  the  noted  horse  trainer,  has  been  at 
Prankfort  breaking  the  famous  colt,  "  Kentucky  Wonder,"  he 
having   become  vicious  in  harness.     The   Professor   had   him 


78  PROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVER 

under  control  in  three  days,  so  thtit  now  a  ladv  can  harness  &n^ 
drive  him." — Maine  Farmer. 

Office  of  J.  L.  HoRR,  M.  D.,      | 

Saccarappa,  Me.,  April  24,  1886.  j 
During  the  present  week  we  have  had  the  pleasure  of  wit- 
nessing an  exhibition  of  Prof.  W.  H.  Sanborn's  system  of 
controlling  and  educating  horses  and  colts.  His  method  of 
training  is  truly  wonderful  and  his  success  astonishing.  He 
took  a  mare  of  mine  that  I  could  not  drive  near  a  train  of  cars, 
and  in  a  short  time  could  drive  her  close  to  a  steaming  locomo- 
tive. She  drives  so  much  better  since  his  training  her  that  I 
consider  her  worth  twenty-five  dollars  more  than  before. 

J.  L.  HoRR,  M.  D. 

Saccarappa,  Me.,  April  27,  1886. 
I  own  a  mare  that  was  very  afraid  of  a  locomotive,  and 
she  would  rear,  plunge  and  run  back  whenever  I  tried  to  near 
it.  Professor  Sanborn  handled  her  April  20,  for  about  five 
minutes,  before  myself  and  several  others,  and  with  the  use  of 
nothing  but  bridle  and  reins,  without  throwing,  whirling  or 
whipping,  he  then  drove  her  close  to  a  steaming  locomotive 
where  she  stood  still.  I  can  now  drive  her  there  myself  as 
^ell  as  the  Professor  can.  C.  J.  Schwartz,  Liveryman. 

Webster,  Me.,  April  11,  1886. 
Prof.  W.  H.  Sanborn. 

Dear  Sir  : — Since  you  used  370ur  method  of  controlling  horses, 
last  November,  on  my  stallion,  "  Gen.  Shields,"  he  has  been  as 
clever  as  any  horse  can  be,  and  I  can  now  lead  him  out  for 
service  with  perfect  safety.  He  is  also  clever  in  the  stall  and 
has  not  offered  to  bite  or  strike.  Before  3'ou  came  to  Sabattus 
he  was  entirely  unmanageable,  was  feared  by  every  one  w^ho 
came  in  contact  with  him,  and  was  considered  by  practical 
horsemen  to  be  a  dangerous  horse.  D.  S.  Halasy. 

Warren,  Me.,  July  18th,  1885. 
Professor  Sanborn  handled  a  very  wilful  bolting  colt  for  me, 
that  had  defied  all  my  efforts  to  rein  her,  and  controlled  her  so 
effectually,  that  he  drove  her  to  objects  to  which,  before  he 
handled  her,  it  was  impossible  to  drive  her,  and  I  can  now 
drive  her  as  well  as  he  can.  C.  S.  Cob  urn. 


COLTS    AXD     HORSES.  79 

^Vashington,  Me.,  Aug.  3d,  1885. 
For  handling  colts,  halter  pullers  and  other  vices,  all  of 
which  Professor  Sauboru  treats,  he  is  the  most  successful  edu- 
cator I  have  ever  seen  or  heard  of ;  and  I  am  pleased  to 
recommend  him,  not  only  as  an  efficient  educator  of  the  horse, 
but  as  a  pleasant  and  agreeable  gentleman.  His  system  can 
as  well  be  taught  by  any  of  his  pupils  as  by  himself. 

IIiRAM  Bliss,  Jr. 

Freedom,  Me.,  Sept.  17th,  1885. 
My  stallion,  "Pompeii,"  was  very  unruly  on  the  road  or  track, 
it  being  impossible  to  speed  him  without  his  breaking  and  run- 
ning.    I  drove  him  but  three  hours  under  Prof.  Sanborn's  sys- 
tem, and  I  can  now  control  him  with  ease. 

Chesley  B.  Ingraiiam,  Knox,  Me.. 

BucKFiELD,  Me.,  IMarch  9th,   1886. 
Your  system  is  superior  to  anything  I  ever  saw.     It  broke 
m}""  bolting  horse  at  once  so  that  a  boy  can  drive  him. 

David  Record. 

North  Anson,  Me.,  March  3d,  1886. 
I  have  handled  3^our  way  and  think  it  is  the  best  thing  I  ever 
saw.     It  is  worth  all  it  costs  to  teach  a  colt  how  to  back.     The 
black  mare  you  handled  is  all  right. 

B.  B.  Phillips,  Trainer  of  Colts  and  Trotters. 

Jefferson,  Me.,  March  oth,   1886. 
In  regard  to  the  bolting  colt  you  handled  last  August,  you 
did  him  more  good,  what  little  you  handled  him,  than  Keiser 
(an  old  colt  trainer)  did  in  five  weeks.     You  broke  him  of  his 
shyness  and  reined  him  well.  Lorenzo  A.  Meservey. 

Waldoboro,  Me.,  March  8th,   1886. 
It  gives  me  pleasure  to  say  that  your  system  has  been  a 
great  benefit  to  me  in  handling  my  colt,  as  it  only  required  a 
few  days  to  break  him.  M.  R.  Achorn. 

Union,  Me.,  July  28th,   1885. 
Professor    Sanborn's    system    of    controlling    and    treating 
vicious  horses  and  colts  gave  perfect  satisfaction  to  his  class 
here.  J.  W.  Burrows  &  Son. 


^0  PROGRESSIVE    CONTROL    OVER 

Presque  Isle,  Me.,  May  9,  1885. 
Professor  Sanborn's  system  is  easily  learned  and  applied, 
and  gives  immediate  control.  He  obtained  such  complete  con- 
trol over  two  vicious  kicking  mares,  in  a  few  minutes,  before 
the  class,  that  he  harnessed  and  unharnessed  them  with  ease. — 
D.  F.  Dyer,  Fred  Davis,  J.  H.  Currier,  S.  W.  Duff, 
Geo.  Gosline,  W.  H.  Worthley,  F.  E.  Brannon,  Geo.  F. 
Whitney,  and  others. 

Bridgewater,  Me.,  May  5th,  1885. 
I  believe  Professor  Sanborn's  system  of  handling  horses  and 
colts,  to  be  the  only  true  system.  Hon.  J.  H.  Kidder. 

Warren,  Me.,  July  18,  1885. 
We  are  convinced  that  Professor  Sanborn  has  solved  the 
problem :  how  to  control  and  educate  colts  and  unruly  horses 
without  harshness.  He  uses  nothing  but  a  bridle  and  reins, 
and  discards  the  whip,  throwing  and  whirling  as  a  means  of 
control.  The  results  are  speedy,  certain  and  permanent. 
Those  who  have  colts  to  handle  can,  by  his  system,  save  time 
and  labor,  and  produce  better  educated  colts  in  a  few  days 
than  in  weeks  by  any  other  method.  He  handled  a  bad  bolter, 
one  nettlesome  about  standing,  and  a  horse  contrary  in  back- 
ing, while  here,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all. — H.  C.  Kalloch, 
J.  W.  Eastman,  Daniel  Ladd,  M.  D.  Watts,  C.  Peabody, 
L.  M.  Newcomb,  Ellis  Watts,  C.  S.  Rice,  D.  E.  Fiske, 
C.  S.  CoBURN,  W.  R.  Feyler,  Nathaniel  Eastman. 

Thomaston,  Me.,  March  8th,  1886. 
My  experience  as  a  practical  horse  shoer  during  a  period  of 
some  thirty  years,  including  three  years  among  the  Cavalry  of 
the  U.  S.  Army,  has  brought  me  in  contact  with  an  unlimited 
number  of  the  most  vicious  horses  and  mules.  I  regard  the 
system  as  taught  and  practiced  by  Prof.  Sanborn,  for  shoeing 
and  managing  vicious  horses,  also  breaking  colts,  the  most 
successful  and  complete  that  has  yet  come  under  my  observa- 
tion. E.  C.  Andrews,  Practical  Horse  Shoer. 

Patten,  Me.,  June,  1885. 
The    Professor    handled   my   three    year   old   stallion,    not 
thoroughly  controlled  and  unruly  in  stud,  to  my  satisfaction. 

L.  M.  Grant. 


COLTS    AND     HORSES.  81 

Bethel,  Me.,  March  4th,   1886. 
I  have  attended  all  the  horse  trainers'  schools  that  have  been 
in  Bethel  for  the  last  twenty  years  and   have  practiced  their 
methods.     I  cheerfully  recommend  Professor  Sanborn's  method 
as  the  best  for  shoeing  colts  and  bad  horses. 

J.  C.  Billings,  Practical  Horse  Shoer. 

MoNTYiLLE,  Me.,  Sept.  27th,  1885. 
Last  August  10th,  Prof.  Sanborn  directed  me  how  to  handle 
a  vicious  kicker.     I  followed  his  directions,  and  after  twenty- 
four  hours  it  was  impossible  to  make  him  kick. 

Nelson  Young. 

East  Yassalboro,  Me.,  March  4th,   1886. 
1  am  glad  to  inform  you  that  the  runaway  colt  you  handled 
last  Sept.  1st,  is  doing  nicely  and  drives  as  well  as  any  horse. 

John  Getchell. 

Jefferson,  Me.,  March  12th,  1886. 
I  have  had  good  success  with  your  method  of  handling  colts. 
I  think  it  is  the  most  practical  way  to  get  them  under  control. 

Thos.  p.  Weeks,  Colt  Trainer. 

Dixfield,  Me.,  March  7th,   1886. 
I  have  had  the  best  of  success  with  3'our  system  of  handling, 
and  should  not  want  to  get  along  without  it.       E.  O.  Ames. 

South  Paris,  Me.,  March  8th,  1886. 
Within  the  past  year  I  have  broke  some  forty  colts  and 
horses,  and  have  in  every  case  used  your  system,  and  have 
invariably  found  it  equal  to  the  occasion.  Some  of  the  horses 
handled  have  been  vicious,  but  in  no  instance  have  I  failed  to 
make  them  do  what  I  asked  of  them.  I  consider  your  system 
of  controlling  and  breaking  colts  the  best  I  have  seen.  I  have 
tried  several  others,  but  the  one  taught  by  you  is  unquestion- 
ably the  best,  and  I  would  not  part  with  it  for  any  consider- 
ation. Frank  L.  Starbird,  Colt  Trainer. 

North  Union,  Me.,  March  15th,  1886. 
I  have  trained  colts  for  twenty-five   years,  but  your  way  is 
easier  than  anything  I  have  ever  found.     It  has  done  me  a 
great  deal  of  good.  Daniel  Hibberd,  Colt  Trainer. 


82       l^ROGRESSIVE  CONTROL  OVEK  COLTS  AI\i>  HORSES. 

Jay,  Me.,  March  14tli,  188G. 
My  colt  drives  quite  well  now.     He  was  not  safe  to  drive 
before  I  took  him  to  you  last  December.  E.   W.    Gould. 

Glex  House,  N.  H.,  March  4th,  1886. 
I  have  used  your  method  of  treating  kickers  and  switchers 
with  good  success,  iind  your  method  of  breaking  colts  is  the 
best  I  ever  used.  J.  W.  Brown. 

Frankfort,  Me.,  Nov.  20,  1885. 
"  Kentucky  Wonder"  was  harnessed  a  few  times  last  winter, 
but  after  a  short  time  he  became  very  vicious  in  harness.     Pro- 
fessor Sanborn  handled  him  from  Oct.   15th  to  17th,  and  I  now 
consider  him  safe  for  my  wife  to  drive.  Rowe  Emery. 

Fryeburg,  Me.,  March  3d.,  1886. 
This  certifies  that  my  mare  was  afraid  of  the  cars  ;    but  after 
a  few  minutes'  handling  before  the  class.  Prof.   Sanborn  drove 
lier  to  a  locomotive  without  her  showing  the  least  fear. 

A.  P.  Charles. 
Witnessed  by  F.  W.  Spring,  James  G.  Hill,  W.  R.  Tarbox. 

North  Anson,  Me.,  Dec.  17th,  1885. 

Prof.  Sanborn  can.  and  does,  do  all  he  claims. 

J.  B.  Twaddle,  M.  D. 

Bridgton,  Me.,  Feb.  8th,  1886. 
We  candidly  think  that  every  man,  especially  those  who  are 
growing  colts,  would  be  benefitted  by  Professor  Sanborn's  sys- 
tem. His  method  is  entirely  new,  without  torture,  and  can  be 
used  by  others  with  success,  as  he  uses  nothing  but  bridle  and 
reins  to  control  and  handle.  — Rev.  T.  M.  Davies,  S.  S.  Ful- 
ler, R.  A.  Hill,  G.  L.  Robinson,  E.  Waterhouse,  W.  M. 
Staples,  and  others. 


Prof.  I H.  SANBORN'S  Improyed  Controlling  Bits. 


Patented  Nov.  9,  1886. 

The  Most  Perfect  Bits  Ever  Invented. 

Control  made  Certain  and  the  Confidence  of 

the  Driver  Established. 

SIAIPLE,     PiUMAKK     AND     PRACTICAL. 


Tt  is  an  establislieil  fact  that  the  more  sensitive  place  avc  can  find  upon  wiiicii  to 
control,  the  finer  the  control  will  be.  The  most  sensitive  jilace  about  the  horse  is 
the  center  of  the  root  of  his  mouth,  Imck  of  the  fifth  bar.  A  slight  pressure  on  this 
place  with  the  end  of  the  thumb  Avill  control  for  a  variety  of  purposes.  This  princi- 
ple is  brought  into  practical  operation  by  m\'  patent  bits,  which  will  give  the  most 
satisfactory  control  ever  obtained. 

The  mitjoiity  of  horses  have  the  roofs  of  their  mouths  more  or  less  concave; 
and  the  protuberance  on  tlie  centre  of  my  bits  tits  into  the  cavity,  helps  hold  the  bit 
in  place,  and  is  there  ready  to  be  used  for  ct)ntrol,  which  is  l\imki)Iatklv  obtained 
bv  a  shght  pull  on  the  reins,  ^hus  causing  the  centi-e  of  the  bit  to  pyess  on  the 

"COXTROLLTNG  NEHVB." 

For  very  i\ank  and  headstrong  horses,  the  metal  bit  should  be  used.  For 
those  that  are  sensitive  and  of  nervous  disposition  the  Ri;ni?i-'R  bit  will  answ<'r. 

The  above  bits  can  be  used  in  connection  with  a  bridle  constructed  as  in  Fig.  2, 
in  this  book;  or  for  ordinary  dri\-ing  purposes  they  maybe  used  in  connection  with 
an  overdraw,  with  nose-band  attached  to  the  inner  rings. 

Used  as  described,  tiiey  will  be  found  to  be  a  sure  cure  for  bolting,  pulling, 
side  reining,  shying  lolling,  lighting  check,  poor  reiners;  and  used  in  cbiinectiou 
Avith  a  bridle  like  "mine,  as  ilbistrated  on  page  o.i,  will  prevent  a  trotter  from 
breaking. 

ME.s'>jus.  Crane  &  Co.,  Newai'k,  X.  J.,  have  the  exclusive  license  to  manufac- 
ture these  bits. 

The  metal  bits  are  forged  from  best  quality  of  steel.  The  rubber  bits  are 
made  of  verv  strong,  flexible  steel  chain,  cove»'ed  with  best  quality  of  rubber 
used  for  sucli  purposes.     Every  bit  is  thui-oughly  tested  before  leaving  tlie  factory. 

For  sale  by  Saddler.s  senferally,  or  by  ine  at  my  Exhibitions. 

AV.  H,  SANBORN. 


